Re: [Chrysler300] Big Wheels

[Ray Jones <hurst300@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Rich;
The key to judging is what do YOU want? If you like the wires, then 
keep them and take the few point loss. One member put an incorrect 
interior color and was willing to have the 40 point loss because he 
liked the car better that way. It's your car, and unless you are 
striving for perfection (and/or max points), you make it as correct as 
you can with the few things "not as built" that suit you.

As for the wheel weights, you might not notice anything wrong, but the 
tires will wear in time. If you have considerable weight in one spot, 
then you might want to dismount the tire and balance just the wheel to 
find the heavy spot. Mark the wheel and note the weight needed. Then 
rebalance the tire and wheel and see where the weight is needed. If 
more weight is needed in the same spot, dismount the tire and move it 
around the rim to the opposite side. Often, the tire imbalance will 
offset the wheel imbalance and you come up with no/little weight 
needed. This procedure should always be used with custom wheel/tires.

regards, Ray
All right folks, time's awasting! This'll be a good'un, don't miss it!
Lets get those Meet Registrations in soon, give poor Eleanor a break 
and don't wait 'til the last few days.

On Mar 22, 2005, at 12:41 PM, Rich Barber wrote:

> John:
>
>  Thank you for the thorough response, as per usual from you.? Before we
>  let this drop, could you confirm the rim widths as published in the
>  Chrysler shop manual.? 5.5" for Windsor & NY (& 300, assumed), 6" for
>  Imperial and 6.5" for Crown Imperial.
>
>  I bought a nice set of rechromed Motor Wheel wire wheels from a Club
>  member and they have the Bornstein repro caps.? After installing the 
> set
>  of Remington L-78-15 wide WSW's on the wheels (with new tubes), I 
> noted
>  the caps were a loose fit and made too much "music" while driving.? I
>  was looking for an appropriate O-ring? to shim them up, but settled 
> for
>  a wrap of 1/4" sticky-sided foam weather strip applied to the back of
>  the caps.? Cheapest fix so far!
>
>  This query has generated the usual banter over judging.? I really like
>  the looks of the wire wheels on my car, but am considering stripping 
> and
>  repainting the original rims and installing a different set of tires 
> on
>  them for judged Chrysler 300 meets.? I would need to repaint the 
> center
>  medallions for max. impact.? I respect the judging rules and have
>  removed the cowl-mounted outside rear-view mirrors from my car to 
> return
>  it to as-shipped factory condition.? I replaced them with removable
>  clamp-on mirrors mounted to the vent window frames.? Guess I will 
> remove
>  the nice clock I bought for the judged shows, also.
>
>  My tire research shows very few options for 8.00-15's.? So far only
>  Coker seems to have them with 3" WSW's.@ $127/pop for their Coker
>  Classic.? Seems like a high price to pay for an inferior tire.? The
>  L78-15 Remingtons ride and handle quite nicely, but are probably 15-16
>  years old with less than 1,000 miles on them.? May be time to replace
>  them on general principles.? Any thoughts on having all the balance
>  weights put on the inside of the wire wheels?? I had this done and
>  notice no vibration problems, even with considerable weight.? Keeps 
> the
>  appearance of the wheel cleaner.
>
>  300-ly,
>
>  Rich Barber
>  Brentwood, CA
>  1955 C-300
>
>  Johnl wrote:
>
>  >A couple of issues here.? First, if a 300B came from the factory 
> with wires and it is in judging at a Chrysler 300 Club International 
> meet then there is no issue.? If the wheels were added later the car 
> is not correct as to the build sheet.
>  >
>  >Wire wheels were offered from 1953 through 1956 and there were three 
> variations that I know of.?? For sometime I though they were offered 
> from 1951 up but Sherwood Kahlenberg pointed out to me that it was 
> 1953 through 1956.?? Thanks Sher, as I've always said our cars are a 
> continuing learning process and no one has all of the answers.
>  >
>  >1.??? Plymouth/Dodge with 48 spokes and the lacing was on the outer 
> lip of the wheel like the T-Bird wires.
>  >
>  >2.??? DeSoto/Chrysler also with 48 spokes but the lacing is further 
> back in the wheel and this is also wider than the Plymouth/Dodge.? 
> Both are a 15", 5 bolt on a 4 1/2" pattern.
>  >
>  >3.??? Imperial wheels were 52 spokes with the same lacing as the 
> DeSoto/Chrysler wheel but were wider.? These were 15" on a 5 1/2"bolt 
> pattern.? Also they were used on DeSoto and Chrysler wagons, but I'm 
> not sure about Plymouth and Dodge.? I've read and heard stories about 
> a bulletin sent out via Chrysler that these wheels would not be 
> offered after a certain date in 1955 on Imperials and Wagons.? My 
> guess is it had something to do with a weight issue regarding these 
> particular cars.
>  >
>  >Most of the repro wires for these cars I've seen are all done in 52 
> spoke version.? I have no idea why.? A few months ago I decided to 
> install wires on our '55 NYer T&C and was lucky enough to find a set 
> of newly finished correct original wheels.
>  >
>  >Last, a subject that has not been covered in any of this is the caps 
> for all of these wheels.? There are two sources that I know of.? Bob 
> Bornstein in Southern California was offering them and the product was 
> excellent.? Now Coker Tire has them available.? It is my opinion that 
> Bob's are nicer but at 60 mph you can't see the difference.? If you 
> have a set of originals don't spend the time and money to replate 
> them.? The repros are a far better way to go.
>  >
>  >John Lazenby
>  >Southern California, just minutes from Disneyland
>  >1955 Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe Town & Country
>  >1955 Imperial Newport
>  >1955 Chrysler C300
>  >1956 Chrysler 300B
>  >1957 Chrysler 300C Coupe
>  >1960 Chrysler 300F Coupe
>  >1963? Volkswagen Beetle
>  >
>  >
>  >
>  >?
>  >
>  >?
>  >
>
>
>
>
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