Re: [Chrysler300] Disabled C-300 transmission

["Don Verity" <d.verity@xxxxxxx>]

Elmer and Narve,
  You do NOT remove the converter with the transmission on ANY power flite,
or cast iron Torque Flite, period! This is not like an aluminum TF with a
cast on bellhousing.
  Narve, it sounds like you installed the transmission correctly. If the
pump
is not working, you will not be able to fill the converter to full capacity.
This could be why the difference in what the manual says, and what you got
in it. The converter and cooler should have both been flushed before the
rebuilt unit is put on. These units have to be very clean in order to
function properly. A pressure gage would be the way to go to find out if the
lien pressure is right. Sounds like it is going to have to come back out
anyway.
300ly,
    Don
----- Original Message -----
From: elmer tuuri <eltuuri@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <narve.n@xxxxxxx>; <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 1:58 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Disabled C-300 transmission


> You must remove t-converter with trans & install as a unit!!  if not -pump
> could be damaged                                  Elmer
>
> >From: "Narve Nordanger" <narve.n@xxxxxxx>
> >To: "300 Club Webring" <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
> >Subject: [Chrysler300] Disabled C-300 transmission
> >Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2005 22:19:41 +0200
> >
> >Does anyone in the group know a possible cause or fix for my C-300
> >Powerflite? My freshly overhauled Powerflite only moves the car slowly in
> >Reverse on a level surface, and in small (2") steps when revving to 3000
> >RPM
> >in Drive. When meeting an incline, neither gear moves the car.
> >Could it be that I missed the pump drive when installing (it slided quite
> >easily onto the cut-off bolts I used for alignment and no force was
needed
> >to tighten up the bolts), or could it be the pump has quit pumping
(working
> >fine before the overhaul), or is there any other possible cause or remedy
> >that does not include "start by removing the transmission from the car".
> >
> >Other facts:
> >1) The dipstick level sinks about 1/4" when engine is started (should
this
> >be 1/2" or more?)
> >2) There is an audible humming from the converter in Neutral, when
engaging
> >a gear it now takes 3-4 seconds before the humming ends - not less than 1
> >second as previously.
> >3) Even if I emptied both transmission and converter during the rebuild,
it
> >has only been possible to properly refill 6 of the Shop Manuals announced
> >11,5 quarts capacity. I put in 8 quarts and the fluid now covers all the
> >dipstick's texting...
> >4) I removed the engine/trans combo as a whole, removed the transmission
> >from the engine and got it overhauled without touching the converter or
> >flex
> >plate.
> >5) I do not have a pressure gauge myself, but could locate someone with
> >such, if that is the way to go.
> >6) Removing the powerplant is a tedious task in a small private garage,
> >that
> >is why I am hoping for clever clue to avoid that.
> >7) The trans guy says bring it back and he will check - only problem he
is
> >500 miles away...
> >
> >
> >hope everyone at Lake Tahoe is having a good time,
> >
> >
> >Narve Nordanger
> >Gearless C-300 in Norway
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> To send a message to this group, send an email to:
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>




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