[Chrysler300] 300C Tailights worth? and your ebay comments

["christopher beilby" <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Thank you to all those who offered their ebay buying experiences and 
suggestions to avoid disappointments and ripoff merchants. Lower down, I 
detail a summary of this for those this might interest.

Now what I ask now, is roughly (as much as anyone knows/guesses) what are 
'57 300C tailights worth, and does anyone know the condition of a pair 
supposed sold for around $500 on ebay apparently not so long ago - 
likely/maybe 3-6 months ago?

Obviously the hardest good original chrome part of these tailights is the 
main body, it the hardest if pitted to rechrome, they having that square 
raised lip/edge running the full way round, just outside lens edges, making 
them a nightmare to grind near here, fill pits, never mind the other 
nightmare chrome area inside this that runs to the lens edges!! - so ones 
with deep or considerable pitting are not worth much? Whereas what are 
recent/usual prices paid over last 18 months - 2 years?

Now near 50 years after they were made, are there any still out there that 
whilst not mint, still look good from say 3 feet away, say have no pitting, 
and only very small ageing of the chrome? Any sold lately for how much ?!

Second question re 300C tailights - what success/results with rechromimg 
them, and what can one be charged for a show/mint result if ones to be 
re-chromed have only minor pitting, no real widespread deep pits, heavy 
raised edgeas round pits?


Now for a summary of Members' responses re buying on ebay:
1) a lot of Chrysler part sellers seemingly sometimes think the stuff is 
valuable, and that we will be glad to get it even if not as good as 
expected/described. But there are also excellent/honest sellers out there - 
so the trick is sorting them out before bidding/buying.
2) buying from sellers that offer Paypal is thought safer. Suggestion is 
avoid sending money orders.
3) check sellers feedback comments received before bidding, and avoid any 
sellers with either negative feedback, or where comment about prompt 
delivery or good packing is absent/missing if good  packing is going to be 
important.
4) (always) avoid items where there is no picture.
5) generally avoid items where very short description, and/or only one or 
very few pictures.
6) query descriptions given if doubtful, and likely/especially if any damage 
seen or listed, and especially if a chrome/diecast item (obviously this 
applies to dearer items more so than 'few dollar' items)  ( and ask yourself 
if all important sides of item were shown?!)
7) if item not as described when it arrives, contact seller (and hope?!).  
Then/when if seller not helpful, you can contact ebay (within certain time 
period)
8) ebay can be a source of parts hard to find any other way - you take your 
chances, hopefully win more deals than lose - however if you feel it has got 
to hard/bad, do not use ebay any more.

And I add a few of my own, not to say they are correct, but I have found 
worth doing/trying:
9) literature/original adverts/sales brochures/owners handbook - high volume 
sellers of this stuff are usually the safer people to deal with on ebay.
10) if the item is rare and normally goes for more than it ended at, be 
careful of any high volume seller that has recent negative or neutral 
feedback. If they wish to get out of sending item, they can send cheap 
wrong/damaged part, then offer refund and then thereby keep the part you won 
and paid for.
11) Overseas buyers are better to pay Airmail shipping on all except very 
cheap items because in Australia's case, surface mail takes around 8 weeks 
to get here - (i) this is near the limit of being able to leave negative 
feedback that shonky seller might act to avoid - and (ii) near limit of 
asking ebay/paypal for refund?
Therefore I do not bid on big cheap items, unless real cheap, and only then 
send it surface, if it no good, no big loss?! Otherwise on more expensive 
items, always bite the bullet and pay Airmail - that way you know if about a 
week if ripped off, can act more quickly.
12) returning shonky items - from Australia this is very expensive, and how 
do you get sellers to re-imburse shipping costs - this now for two amounts!! 
  It seems better to avoid this option, as it is a 'lose lose' outcome - ie 
item may be one you would not have bid for because no good to put on car, 
plus you have paid maybe as much or more again for shipping?!
13) ebay offer little real fast simple help re lodging complaint - I have 
one claim going back to May where I still not knowing what ebay intend 
doing?! (this point somewhat confirmed by some members' other ebay bad 
experiences)
14) if it is expensive and you want it, ask for phone number, and try and 
talk to the seller before bidding - it may help you decide if seller knows 
what he is talking about, has listed. Also you may be able to decide if a 
good person to deal with, will be helpful after the sale, and does not only 
care about getting your money and nothing else.

thanks to all that replied - all members who have read this far make up 
their own minds, or contact me if anything further, or other hints/tips.

christopher in Australia




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