Re: [Chrysler300] Braking system problems

[William Huff <whuff@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Howdy,

Not to be argumentative, but in a hydraulic system with equally sized 
lines to all points, pressure is equal throughout the entire system 
at any given time.  In theory, at least, no significant pressure can 
be applied until any air in the system is eliminated or compressed 
down.  That is why sometimes a multiple pedal pump can make a low 
brake pedal come up, air in the system is compressed down to 
virtually zero volume.  Only then will the brakes be applied.

Certainly "using it" is a key to good operation.  Keeps everything 
moving and loosened up.  However, I can't believe a problem with the 
car pulling and even locking up one front wheel would fall into this 
category.  It seems to me that any pistons that are so gummed up or 
corroded as to not apply when enough pressure is applied to lock up 
one wheel would soon have scored cups and soon need replacing, even 
if a flush did loosen them enough to function.

I have had that nasty feeling when brakes fail, it will get your 
heart rate up right now.  On the older cars with transmission mounted 
parking brakes, it is really scary, they don't slow you at 
all.  Given our litigious society, the size and weight, not to 
mention value of our 300s and not wanting to endanger anyone, my 
choice would be to strip the front wheels down to examine the pistons 
and cups.  If the cylinders are not scored or pitted too badly, a 
quick hit with a brake hone and some new cups, available at any local 
auto parts store (well, the Mom and Pop type anyway) should get the 
car back on the road in safe condition.  This is even more crucial if 
it has a single reservoir master cylinder.

Bill Huff



At 10/28/200712:09 PM, Russell Roe wrote:
>Tom and group.....I have many vintage and antique autos and they sit 
>a lot and the brakes act this way occasionaly.  The best remedy to 
>start with is just a good bleeding of the brake system. This gets 
>all the contaminated fluid out and air out of the lines and gets 
>everything working again. Kind of a ** if you don't use it you lose 
>it** kind of problem....also brake fluid is harmful to painted 
>surfaces so be cautious when doing this.  The left front wheel is 
>closest to the master cylinder and therefore gets the most pressure 
>when the brakes are applied if the brake system is low on fluid or 
>there is air in the brake lines....once all the air is out and the 
>fluid levels are full most of the time the brakes will work as they 
>should.   Give this a try and I'm guessing it will correct the 
>problem........Rusty in Oregon 1957 300c, 61 Newport, 36 Dodge 
>brothers, 78 Jeep Golden Eagle 401 J-10 4wd, and many un-mentional 
>non-mopar cars
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>




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