Re: [Chrysler300] 1965 300L questions

["Don Warnaar" <300country@xxxxxxx>]

Darrin and all,

The recommended lamp for the running light on the 300L is a #67 lamp - 4 cp (candle power), 7.97 watts.

You could use a #63 - 3 cp, which would not be any problem with heat, but would be rather dim.

The #90 - 6 cp would be much brighter and would probably be safe to use (not produce too much heat), but I would rather err on the side of complete safety to the lens, and stay with the 67.

When I got my 300L, the lamp was a 21 cp (don't recall the number).  It was very (VERY) bright and would have melted the lens in short order.  Fortunately, it was wired into the headlight switch and was not on unless the parking/headlights were on.  I have the feeling that the dealer connected it that way, because the running light was not legal in all states and probably came from the factory not connected.  We will probably never know, but why would the factory have put in a 21 cp lamp, knowing that the lens would surely be affected by the heat produced by that large a lamp?  Perhaps the factory didn't put in any lamp and left it up to the dealer to install one in states where it was legal.  I replaced the lamp right away with a #67 and connected it to the ballast resistor where it is on whenever the engine is running. That replacement lamp is still in the car.

Don Warnaar

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Darrin Bailey<mailto:Darrin.Bailey@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
  To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
  Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2007 11:18 PM
  Subject: [Chrysler300] 1965 300L questions


  I have two questions for any L owners or those familiar with 65
  Chryslers:

  1) Easy one. For the L running light, I know a 7 Watt bulb is
  recommended due to heat, but do we have a bulb size on file. No
  reference is made in the literature. It appears to be a single
  post-small. Do not want to buy 6 to find the right darn size. 

  2) Harder one. The L had a serious drip from the torque converter
  today. It appears the converter I have differs from the picture in the
  factory service manual that indicates a drain lug in the "front shield."
  Mine has no drain plug, just a weep hole-center lower edge and four
  small blots along the lower edge. I tightened the bolts slightly and
  less drip, but why the serious leak? The car had not been started for
  two weeks prior. I also have not started the car, to fully test the
  leakage now after a little tightening. Is their a real seal behind this
  aluminum plate or just screws washers? Are real seals available from
  NAPA? Should I need to service both pan gasket/filter at the same time?
  Dip stick was full and pink. 

  Thanks,

  Darrin Bailey

  Another L added to the stable 

  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



   

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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