Hello group, Those of you with excellent memory might recall my frustration from last year when I had problems starting my C-300 at all, asking whether anyone had any advice. Despite some good advice, I eventually became so p**sed by the non-starting that I did not touch the car for a period of 8 months. But recently I've spent the better part of an entire week-end to sort out all the bugs, and some of the findings might be applicable to other amateurs as well: . I have now perfected my "How to start a worn 6V Hemi with 12V battery"-routine to my own full satisfaction, hooking a 12V diesel battery directly to the starter main, and a 6V to all other items including the starter solenoid. Prolonged cranking is now possible without risk of cable melt-down, and no sparks are flying. . Then patient scraping of 4 layers of paint from the harmonic balancer to my astonishment revealed some almost invisible timing marks, after I had used a wooden stick in No 1 cylinder to determine the approximately TDC. . Hooking up the timing-light reveled that the vacuum rubber-hose did hold the distributor at almost dead correct position 10 degrees BTDC, the scraping had been wasted time. . Then I carefully checked all the ignition cables, and discovered that I had indeed switched No 6 and 8 at the distributor. Fixed that, the car still did not want to start. But it might explain the car's unwillingness to accelerate last year. . Next on my list was testing the compression. Of course the values varied a lot indicating an overhaul in the future, but most of the cylinders should have more than enough compression to ignite. . I then spent a few hours rebuilding the distributor back to points, in case the Petronix installed last year had some sort of fault, and carefully setting the breaker points. Luckily I had a spare distributor to copy the set-up from. You guessed it, the car would not start. The smell of raw gasoline at the rear did although indicate that the ignition was the problem. . Then out of nothing but occasional cranking, on the third day the engine started to cough, and after heavy manipulating of the gas pedal actually came to life without me having done anything further. . I immediately made ready for a test drive and after having removed the second battery put the car in reverse - and discovered that the brakes had disappeared within the last 8 months. Luckily the hand brake was overhauled last year. A quick check at the master cylinder indicated total loss of fluid, but no spots was visible below any wheels and I turned the attention to the master cylinder. As it had neither any visible leaks, I suspected the fluid had been sucked into the vacuum chamber, and four screws later found a good lot of fluid sloshing around inside the clock. . My expensively purchased factory overhauled master cylinder from eBay had developed a substantial internal leak, injecting silicon brake fluid into the vacuum chamber - and from that most likely further into the engine. Apparently the master cylinder had been subjected to heavy doses of acid to clear old rust, this might be the cause of failure as the internal rubber looked good. . One hour later I had the old master cylinder I did overhaul back in 1986 ready installed, and was out for a test run. So, all you experts out there, am I right to believe that the silicon fluid from the brakes sucked into the intake has acted as an effective anti-combustion ingredient and precluding the start until the master cylinder actually was empty? And are leaks like this a general problem on the Kelsey-Hayes Master Cylinders? Narve Nordanger C-300 in Norway since 85 With a brake overhaul sailing up, it will be my 3rd - this time with standard brake fluid, as I have had enough of replacing brake light contacts that has been plugged by the silicon. Hopefully in less than 8 months.. [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/