Re: [Chrysler300] Still an stubborn amateur after all this years

[paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]

Is there a chance that your gas there is a similar formula to
what we get in the USA??
if so at 8 months old, or more, old less volitele gas plus the
addition of a contaminant (the sillycone)  would sure interfere
with starting.  Have you tried dribbling just a little fresh gas down
your primary carburator??  


--
Paul Holmgren
2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hoosier Corps #L6
CPUs run on smoke. I know this
because when the smoke comes out,
it stops working. 
  -------------- Original message from "Narve Nordanger" <narve.n@xxxxxxx>: --------------


> Hello group,
> 
> Those of you with excellent memory might recall my frustration from last
> year when I had problems starting my C-300 at all, asking whether anyone had
> any advice. Despite some good advice, I eventually became so p**sed by the
> non-starting that I did not touch the car for a period of 8 months. But
> recently I've spent the better part of an entire week-end to sort out all
> the bugs, and some of the findings might be applicable to other amateurs as
> well:
> 
>  
> 
> .         I have now perfected my "How to start a worn 6V Hemi with 12V
> battery"-routine to my own full satisfaction, hooking a 12V diesel battery
> directly to the starter main, and a 6V to all other items including the
> starter solenoid. Prolonged cranking is now possible without risk of cable
> melt-down, and no sparks are flying.
> 
> .         Then patient scraping of 4 layers of paint from the harmonic
> balancer to my astonishment revealed some almost invisible timing marks,
> after I had used a wooden stick in No 1 cylinder to determine the
> approximately TDC. 
> 
> .         Hooking up the timing-light reveled that the vacuum rubber-hose
> did hold the distributor at almost dead correct position 10 degrees BTDC,
> the scraping had been wasted time.
> 
> .         Then I carefully checked all the ignition cables, and discovered
> that I had indeed switched No 6 and 8 at the distributor. Fixed that, the
> car still did not want to start. But it might explain the car's
> unwillingness to accelerate last year.
> 
> .         Next on my list was testing the compression. Of course the values
> varied a lot indicating an overhaul in the future, but most of the cylinders
> should have more than enough compression to ignite.
> 
> .         I then spent a few hours rebuilding the distributor back to
> points, in case the Petronix installed last year had some sort of fault, and
> carefully setting the breaker points. Luckily I had a spare distributor to
> copy the set-up from. You guessed it, the car would not start. The smell of
> raw gasoline at the rear did although indicate that the ignition was the
> problem.
> 
> .         Then out of nothing but occasional cranking, on the third day the
> engine started to cough, and after heavy manipulating of the gas pedal
> actually came to life without me having done anything further.
> 
> .         I immediately made ready for a test drive and after having removed
> the second battery put the car in reverse - and discovered that the brakes
> had disappeared within the last 8 months. Luckily the hand brake was
> overhauled last year. A quick check at the master cylinder indicated total
> loss of fluid, but no spots was visible below any wheels and I turned the
> attention to the master cylinder. As it had neither any visible leaks, I
> suspected the fluid had been sucked into the vacuum chamber, and four screws
> later found a good lot of fluid sloshing around inside the clock.
> 
> .          My expensively purchased factory overhauled master cylinder from
> eBay had developed a substantial internal leak, injecting silicon brake
> fluid into the vacuum chamber - and from that most likely further into the
> engine. Apparently the master cylinder had been subjected to heavy doses of
> acid to clear old rust, this might be the cause of failure as the internal
> rubber looked good. 
> 
> .         One hour later I had the old master cylinder I did overhaul back
> in 1986 ready installed, and was out for a test run. 
> 
>  
> 
> So, all you experts out there, am I right to believe that the silicon fluid
> from the brakes sucked into the intake has acted as an effective
> anti-combustion ingredient and precluding the start until the master
> cylinder actually was empty? And are leaks like this a general problem on
> the Kelsey-Hayes Master Cylinders?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Narve Nordanger
> 
> C-300 in Norway since 85
> 
> With a brake overhaul sailing up, it will be my 3rd -  this time with
> standard brake fluid, as I have had enough of replacing brake light contacts
> that has been plugged by the silicon. Hopefully in less than 8 months..
> 
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
> 
> ------------------------------------
> 
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> 
> 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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