[Chrysler300] a caution re using higher pressure radiator caps in 50s cars/300 ?!

[christopher beilby <thelastbestgenius@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Don't know if I missed anyone else raising this thought/query/warning re what pressure radiator caps to use ??
 
Some/many late US 50s cars still used honeycomb heater cores - '58-59 Cadillacs for sure, as well as '57 Chevy, but not sure about 300s - however the easiest way you seem to be able to blow out/up your original heater core on some/most of these, is to put a higher pressure than original cap on.  Others correct me, but in the late 50s, caps were not 12lb, let alone 14lbs.
 
With most such original factory heater cores, when taken out because they have sprung a leak, one finds the core still perfect, but a soldered seam at their/one edge has let go/split.  Resoldered, they are of a way better copper than new ones.  But beware, a wrong higher pressure radiator cap than original (often only 8-10lbs), will/may see another seam let go. (that is the case on my 58 Cad convert - and you have to remove  left front guard to get core out !!! - not a 10 min job. )
 
Others more Mopar/300ly please comment re using (wrong?) higher pressure cap effects on 300 heater cores  - luckily all mine are still perfect, but I note US 1957 Chevy biggest parts supplier catalogue charges/shows more for a rebuilt original core than new repo, so I guess if possible, do all you can to keep/save originals, as they are obviously better than new repo?
 
A wrong too high pressure cap may split/resplit a heater core (seam) in no time flat, vesus it never giving trouble/leaking if correct cap used.  And my belief would be Chrysler stuck large enough factory (main radiator) cores in 300s, that overheating never should occur unless something else wrong badly? Afterall 300s, full size Chrysler, were designed for use in US hottest deserts in summer, as well as running air cond in these heats?!Christopher in Australia at my PC Sat a/noon because weather outside still cool windy & showers !!!!!
 
 
 



To: mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Mark.Knutsen@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx: cross.ram@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx: Fri, 29 Aug 2008 22:24:00 -0400Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Radiator Re-core, Additional Rows




Pressure caps !!! While I am no expert on the matter of pressure caps Someone once told me that : In In a cooling system, a higher pressure equates to a higher boiling point for the coolant. Higher coolant pressures also transfer heat from the cylinder heads more efficiently. We recommend using a radiator cap with the highest pressure rating that the radiator is designed to accept. In general, performance radiators will accept 22-24 PSI, and professional racing radiators will accept a 29-31 PSI.The coolant will typically only build to 16-18 PSI, due to expansion up to 200°F. However, if the engine does overheat due to external factors, the pressure inside the cooling system could reach as high as 28 PSI. Once the radiator cap has opened and vented coolant, the engine will not cool down until it has been turned off. The radiator cap is basically a "safety valve", so always use the highest pressure radiator cap that the radiator will tolerate. If you are unsure of the pressure rating for your radiator, check with the manufacturer for the maximum recommended operating pressure.So, putting a lower pressure cap will decrease the boiling point and could cause overheating problems.Lion Charlie Valentine300G, 1962 300 Sport Convertible----- Original Message ----- From: Mark Lindahl To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx ; Knutsen, Mark C Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 4:27 PMSubject: Re: [Chrysler300] Radiator Re-core, Additional RowsHi Mark,I had my stock radiator recored and the guy suggested to add rows to the max capacity.When he did this, it actually made the radiator a little thicker and it never overheated.That company is now gone, but one that I know does repairs is listed below. Give them a call.Lake Zurich Radiator & Air Conditioning785 Oakwood Rd Lake Zurich, IL 60047 Mapa.. (847) 438-4334 There was a small leak between the top tank and they were able to repair it after the original company went out of business.One thing he told me was that it is a good idea to slightly reduce the radiator cap pressure for some of these old radiators.He said the stock cap (14PSI ?) may actually cause the top tank to separate under high pressure/heat and he felt that the stock cap pressure was really not necessary. I would be interested in knowing any comments on this. I still have the stock cap on there with no problems now.Regards,Mark Lindahl'63 300 Conv.----- Original Message ----- From: Knutsen, Mark C To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Friday, August 29, 2008 2:57 PMSubject: [Chrysler300] Radiator Re-core, Additional RowsAny suggestions on radiator shops in the Chicago/Rockford Area for arebuild on a 1961 G?Also, any thoughts on adding an additional row of cooling tubes to thestock radiator? It was recommended to me by some of the local mechanicsbut curious if anyone has tried it yet.Thanks in advanceMark Knutsen300 G.<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=3732744/grpspId=1706713852/msgId=23179/stime=1216714814/nc1=4430620/nc2=4507179/nc3=4836044> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed][Non-text portions of this message have been removed][Non-text portions of this message have been removed] 





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