RE: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K

["Blohm, Robert" <robert.blohm@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

John, The coil in a 12 volt car is designed to run at about 7-8 volts. That is the purpose of the ballast resistor. Also, The coil is designed to run at about 50% duty cycle.(half the time the points are closed-current flow in the coil, half the time the points are open and there is no current flow in the coil). It is okay to temporarily connect the positive of the battery directly to the positive on the coil for a test but I would limit that to 1 minute or so to avoid overheating the coil. When both points are open there must be no current flow thru the coil. The points only ground the negative side of the coil. When both set of points are open there must be no current flow in the coil. I suspect you have current flow with both points open which says there is another path to ground. Condenser could be shorted. Sometimes there is another condenser at the coil on the negative side to reduce radio noise. It this condenser is shorted it is the same as if the points are not opening. An easy way to check is to put a DC voltmeter between frame ground and the negative side of the coil. With both points open the voltage reading should be 12 volts. with either set of points closed the voltage should be zero. If you get a reading of zero with the points open it says you have something shorting between the negative side of the coil and ground, likely inside the distributor. If you get a partial reading 3-8 volts it says the condensor is likely shorted or extremely leaky. It is very easy to have a wire, or spring, or screw touch ground inside the distributor and cause this problem. Hope this helps. Regards, Bob Blohm

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of John
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008 10:16 PM
To: Chrysler 300 Club Intl
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K



Thanks for asking about the non-starting K  - it's still not starting.

I had connected the + terminal on the battery directly to the + terminal on the coil, and sprayed WD-40 throroughly onto the breaker plate & points, and re-installed the cap & rotor.

I turned over the engine a few times with the starter, and checked with a plug lead for spark - it would spark strong enough to give a jolt for 1-2 engine revolutions, then stop sparking.  And once, but only once, did the engine barely "catch ' - Just to let you know, I'm pouring gas down the carb, 1/8 to 1/4 cup each time I try to start the K.  The fuel line is connected to a can of fresh gas, not to the 20+ year-old gas in the tank.

I felt the coil - it was burnin'-hot!  When I pulled the high-tension lead from it, the oil started slowly oozing out.   I recently took it off a running car, so if it's bad now, it happened under the hood of this K.

And so it sets.

John Spiers
Lake Worth, Florida

--- On Sun, 10/26/08, Tim Tomlinson < tomlin@adams.­net<mailto:tomlin%40adams.net>> wrote:

From: Tim Tomlinson < tomlin@adams.­net<mailto:tomlin%40adams.net>>
Subject: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story?
To: "Chrysler 300 club" < Chrysler300@­yahoogroups.­com<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>>
Date: Sunday, October 26, 2008, 9:24 PM

Group,
The past couple of weeks there had been postings regarding various problems with letter cars. If there has been a solution to any or all problems, I have not noticed the solution posted on the site, and would like to know as possible future reference. I usually try to learn from others rather than have to repeat with something similar myself!
First one I recall was a dual point distributor that seemed to be grounded through the body of the distributor, keeping the car from starting (seems it was a 300-K). Any solution yet?
Next was a seeming reversal of polarity or battery leads in a newly finished restoration. Was that isolated and resolved? Do the wipers now park in proper location?
Much thanks. No desire to embarass anyone, just like to learn as best I can.
Tim Tomlinson
2X300-K

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