RE: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K

["George McKovich" <george@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Why not just put a Pertronics unit and Flamethrower Coil on it and be done
with the points??

 

George

 

 

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of John
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 07:39 PM
To: Ron Stewart; Chrysler 300 Club Intl
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K

 

Ron - sounds like the right solution to me! I'm gettin tired chasin' my
tail.
John

--- On Mon, 10/27/08, Ron Stewart <ronstewart31@
<mailto:ronstewart31%40verizon.net> verizon.net> wrote:

From: Ron Stewart <ronstewart31@ <mailto:ronstewart31%40verizon.net>
verizon.net>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K
To: "Warren Anderson" <wranderson@commspee
<mailto:wranderson%40commspeed.net> d.net>, spiers@rocketmail.
<mailto:spiers%40rocketmail.com> com, "Chrysler 300 Club Intl" <chrysler300@
<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com>, "Blohm, Robert"
<robert.blohm@ <mailto:robert.blohm%40enersys.com> enersys.com>
Date: Monday, October 27, 2008, 7:43 PM

nuff is a nuff, simple take dist.toa a ignition shop or tune up shop put on
dist. machine and have it analysed. optioned #2 buy a new one from mopar ,
simple , have agood day 
c300 ron
----- Original Message ----- 
From: Warren Anderson 
To: spiers@rocketmail. com ; Chrysler 300 Club Intl ; Blohm, Robert 
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] The rest of the story? - 300-K

I have not heard that the problem is resolved, so, the ignition coil is not
designed to run at full battery voltage. The ballst resistor actually limits
the current through the coil otherwise it will burn up. 

With a super heated coil, I would look at voltage at the coil first. This
should be 7 volts lets say on one side with the points closed. If it is
always 7 volts, even with engine cranking, there is a incorrect maintained
path to ground on the distributor side of the circuit but the ballast
resistor is doing its job (and assuming that battery voltage is say above
12.5 volts)

A working properly 12V test light with one lead grounded and the other on
the distributor side of the coil MUST blink as the engine is cranked. No
light ever and somewhere the circuit is being pulled to ground always. Light
on always, key in run position, there is no circuit; there is no circuit
continuity. Simple quick tests with a dime store test light.

I have seen the insulation in a point assembly itself fail (as well as the
coil to distributor wire and connecting strap inside and the condenser and
other things) and cause a no start. Problem like this is easily isolated
with the simple 12V test light. 

Warren Anderson
Sedona,AZ

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