My server went down as I tried to check latest replies/advice, so I bit the bullet, jack under rear of trans, dropped rear xmember (boy was that stuck up there even without the bolts!!), took the load of both, and decided to try it as one. It is out, now sitting half on ground, half on legs of the hoist, as I try to figure out how to get it behind car, as tilt tray could only put car in my drive one way - backwards!! Only real removal problem really was pushing the car back out from under it, which went a lot better when I opened the garage door behind it ( boy I can be pretty dumb sometimes/mostimes !!??) Thanks to all those that helped, I have pulled many motors by myself before, but now it out, I glad I did not realise how long a 300 392 and iron torqueflight are, never mind what the hell it weighs. Sure is heavier than Pontiac 455s, and their heads are not so light. Plus even with all front off car, you still have to lift it a fair bit for sump etc to clear. For those that asked, I will scan/send photos once I have them developed - I used 35mm film camera, as if there is a nuclear war (now you USA guys have a black President soon, you realise as per all Wil Smith end of world movies, we now likely will get invaded by aliens !!! - just joking I hope !?), all digitial shots might get erased. (I pulled the cast alloy crank blower pulley, plus whole water pump, as boy what an engineering job all them and other hidden pieces of the blower drive are, and was worried if I dropped motor, that I not bust it all - got shots of what I managed to get apart of all that now) Christopher Australia ps cast date on intake is I figure Sept 28 1956 - the car build date Dec 28, it in first 40, so looks like 300C motors started a bit before the later '56 300C car production? To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx: c300c@xxxxxxxxxxx: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 20:49:48 -0500Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] motor & trans out of 300C as one, or split? My tale of woe:In the 1970s, I undertook the rebuild of my 300-C. After removing the front clip, radiator support, bumper etc., I removed the engine and transmission as a unit. I had a spare 300-Cengine which I mated to the trans and re-installed the complete unit while rebuilding the original to factory specs. This assembly never leaked.Later, after the body rebuild and reassemby, I pulled the spare engine after disconnecting it at the transmission (new front seal) and coupled the new (rebuilt) original engine to it. Lo and behold! a pinched seal and a slight leak. Finally stopped dripping on it's own. You may not be so lucky.My advice is, if possible, reassemble the engine and transmission and install as a single unit. This will avoid later headaches.Gary Hagy300-C, 300-C conv.300-G conv.300-EIn a message dated 12/1/2008 3:32:22 P.M. Mountain Standard Time, cotejohnr@xxxxxxx writes:My 2 cents;I'm assuming Christopher has the "nose off" as he states "Today I have removed all the front panels, rad support etc, and trans also unbolted at crank."No need to angle the engine out and over the radiator support if its gone. I'd opt to leave it together unless engine and tranny are going to be rebuilt and use a crane that's strong enough. Running the risk of pinching seals during reconnect and ending up with a leaker after reassembly would be my concern.John Cotein CT.-----Original Message-----From: Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>To: Chrysler300 list <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>Sent: Mon, 1 Dec 2008 3:32 pmSubject: Re: [Chrysler300] motor & trans out of 300C as one, or split?In 1997 I removed the 354 engine and transmission from a B. It weighed 960 pounds for dry engine and transmission, complete except for generator and power steering pump. I recall my hoist was groaning under the load and it does not complain hoisting 413s.You can shed substantial weight by removing the starter, water pump, exhaust manifolds, and intake........100 to 125 pounds I'd guess.But weight aside, if you can remove the transmission beforehand, engine removal is so much easier if only because you don't have to tilt the engine. See the third picture of http://www.simplexco.com/auto/66300/300.htmlBob----- Original Message ----- From: christopher beilby To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Sent: Monday, December 01, 2008 7:17 AMSubject: [Chrysler300] motor & trans out of 300C as one, or split?Good news, and bad news, on my Supercharged 300C resto.Good news - tonight for first time/night/ever, since I bought the car near 12 years ago, it is where I live - until now I deliberately never kept it here, as afraid of fire, and losing it and too many others if it happened. So tonight, I have three my 300Cs near together enough to put them side by side.Bad news, is why it is here - my 300C quarter panel man asked me to take the body off, so he first can easiest/best repair/replace the only rust on the trunk floor, right at the rear left body mount, just in front of rear bar. I knew it there, but wanted lower 1/4 repairs done first, but he said, do it right, the right way round.So at same time, frame now going to sandblasters before body refitted, so question is, as I am lifting motor and trans out so it easier/better for sandblasters to manage chassis, do other 300 hemi-ly members suggest unbolting the trans to make things lighter, or is motor and trans lifted out as one, not too much for most portable lift frames/cranes ???Today I have removed all the front panels, rad support etc, and trans also unbolted at crank.Just how heavy is 392 motor less carbs, gen and starter, the how heavy cast iron torqueflight?Everything except rear xmember is undone, so I hoping to have it done before lunch, as sandblasted body/frame assembly due back at panel shop 2 days time, xmas still a hoped 'meetable' deadline for panelwork finish, with all three employees promising to work only on it if it 'do-able', but how often do things go to plan with cars/300s?! Christopher Australiaps taking few photos, as boy they did some extra work/things fitting that blower on the car, many neat things like the special power cable from battery in the trunk, used it's wire armour out layer as the earth lead, attaches to engine block in engine bay, battery in trunk - plus you should see the pulley set up for the blower - like they run so close and varied sizes, you cannot change water pump generator drive vee belt without unbolting stuff, as it caught behind the larger blower pulley on water pump section. And the maze of pressure and vacuum feed hoses for fuel pump, blower, boost step up solenoid, never mind ones going to internal gauge clusters. And the fuel pump I thought was stock 300C one modified, looks like a special factory part of some sort.Pity it unlikely may never know how much was done by Factory before car went to Dealer - manual steer box with no power steer pump/pulley, suggests at the very least the blower brackets, complete crank and water pump blower pulley set ups, as otherwise, it having no water pump belt/drive - and special fuel pump maybe? And maybe/likely the 1957 Factory Seat belts I asked questions about a fair while ago?And I now clearly see I have a few perished upper front suspension bushes, strut rubbers, but still can't wait to get the car finally finished, and lay some '1957 Daytona Beach 550bhp', it summer here now, officially starting today.Sorry to ramble on, but that those two brothers in 1956 had the guts/vision/whatever to say 'hey lets order a coming 300C, get it to make make the 530bhp they calculated it needed, and run it as non factory entry at 150mph on Daytona for '57' is to me pretty great/amazing. The car is still with us, and if I can get it done, I just know it will put a smile, similar admiration for them, on many faces other than mine into the future long after I am gone. Many things in the world may be going to hell in a hand basket, but some still have our 300s!!!__________________________________________________________Holiday cheer from Messenger. 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