christopher beilby wrote: > 2nd part first - is ethanol blend gas/petrol more likely to vapour lock in hot weather, over non ethanol fuel?. Yesterday it was 118 degrees, and it too hot middle of the day driving round in open TBird, so I got my driver 300C out, and driving off from lights after about 20 mins of same such use, it vapour locked briefly as it hit top gear on part throttle at about 40 mph. I have never had vapour lock issues before re this car, however it could either be the 10% ethanol 85 octane just filled tank with (110c a litre) , or the 120 degree temp (in the shade) it is already at 11am. > First part of question now - this bought on by current '58 tailight discussion, and Owen NZ's post re correct painting of some 300 parts in resto. > Question: most other good type/marque collector car groups/experts/whatever, try to eventually document, or record/list, 'exactly' how cars were in factory original condition. The 300 Club seems to have started/headed down that way, but is it regarded as important to try and bring a good 300 back to 100% correct re as it left the factory, or just generally try to make it generally look shiny/new, yet not worry about smaller things like wrong bolts, shockers, some gloss paint finishes on mech parts that never had them, etc. > I mean some of this can be real impossible - like not only getting original parts, but if they then have to match date stamp wise. > Early XKE Jag is one car that amazing detail exists re what were correct stampings on many bolts, etc, etc, etc, and early Corvettes, Pontiac GTOs, to be regarded as correct/genuine correct resto, likewise can go to fine detail re what is right, what is not original. What % of these cars are done like this - my guess very low, and doubtful the cost of doing it returned as a premium/higher price?! You have touched on a pet peeve of mine concerning these very questions! It IS IMPOSSIBLE that a single source can be CORRECT for ALL the cars in a marque. NOT all of them that went down the line have a paint run 3/4" from this or that spot, NOT all of them have orange peel (bad paint) in exactly the same place. Not all of them have the same exact turn on a particular fastener. NOT all of them have paint over spray that only goes so far under or over another paint surface. The "Bible" that some folks adhere to for what is right and what is wrong just goes too dang far in the nitpicking. Some cars are better then average, some are average, and some were less then average as they left the factory. Thats LIFE!!! Often times when attending major car auctions I have heard it said that a very well presented car is OVER DONE!!!! Some folks go so far as to say that a #1 car is always BETTER then any car that left the factory! Relegating a factory new car (0 miles) to only #2 status right from the git go. I once had a co-worker that did restos for $$ at home for 2 diff car models, he had to follow the right 'bible' for each, so each car he did all had the SAME little nitpicks duplicated on them per the 'bible' Even if they were Not originally that way. Is that going too far?? -- Paul Holmgren Mine: 2 57 300-C's in Indy Hers: 05 PT GT R/T HO Hoosier Corps L#6 ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/