RE: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge

["Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Dear List,
 
We are fortunate to have Bob Blohm as a contributor to this list and a Club
member.  I have had the pleasure of also working with Bob at Exide and owe a
great deal of my battery knowledge to him, as I attended training classes
taught by him while employed at Exide.  Bob's battery and charger knowledge
is extensive and he has assisted me with technical advice in applications
ranging from motive power forklift batteries, to telephone backup systems,
to substation batteries in nuclear power plants.
 
Great post Bob, and as you mentioned, the problem can be fixed by going to a
solid state regulator.  This is what I did a number of years ago and never
looked back.  It is possible to install the solid state regulator in the old
mechanical regulator box so as to maintain the original look most of us
prefer, that's what I did on my 300G.  No more headlight flicker and
bouncing ammeter!
 
Bob J
 
 

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Blohm, Robert
Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 7:15 PM
To: 2HsandaHeritage@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge





Doug, I have a 61 Imperial that does exactly the same thing. The alternator
was invented and first used by Chrysler in either 60 or 61. GM caught up in
63 and Ford in 64 for some models. When you start the car you take some
power out of the battery. This suppresses the battery voltage slightly. With
the engine running the regulator now puts on full field excitation to the
alternator and the alternator puts out full power thus you see the ammeter
swing up to high rate of charge. Since the battery is only slightly
discharged it immediately responds by increasing its voltage. The regulator
immediately cuts back to low charge thus the ammeter drops back to center,
however, the battery voltage now drops back slightly lower than the
regulator would like and it responds by going back to the high rate of
charge. As soon as the battery has recieved enough power to replace that
which was removed during starting (a couple of minutes) the voltage will
hold up high enough that the regulator will not call for the high rate
charge and now the ammeter settles down in the center. Later cars had some
damping in the ammeter to suppress these swings and make them less
noticable. Late 60's went to solid state regulators which eliminated this
characteristic. The solid state regulator is continuously variable while the
early mechanical (relay) regulators where more of an all or nothing
situation. I worked for Exide Battery for 44 years, all though I was in the
industrial division, but spent a lot of time working with charging methods
and response of a battery. Hope this helps explain it. Bob Blohm
-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
[mailto:Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com]On Behalf Of 2HsandaHeritage@
<mailto:2HsandaHeritage%40comcast.net> comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, April 15, 2009 1:32 PM
To: Chrysler300@ <mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Chrysler300] 300H amp gauge

Hi Group,

My amp gauge needle rapidly moves back and forth when the engine is started.

After driving a mile or so, the needle settles down and remains near the
center of the gauge.

Can anyone explain what the cause might be?

Doug Warrener

Fair Oaks, CA

300H

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