Re: [Chrysler300] Dropping acid not recommended
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Re: [Chrysler300] Dropping acid not recommended



Back in the day...
When my 300-L started overheating, I worked in an automotive shop. One  
shop night, I drained and flushed the system (into the center drain,  
back ion the Y&D days) but it was still "muddy" inside. I then poured  
a gallon of battery acid in and ran it with that for a while. I added  
more water and kept it running then opened the drain and ran it for a  
1/2 hour or so with water running thru it from the hose.
This did a great job of cleaning it out, but didn't get the "mud" deep  
in the block out.
Later When I opened the drains on the side of the block, they didn't  
drain. I pulled out the freeze plugs (OK, welch plugs) and used a coat  
hanger and air and water pressure to clean the block passages out.
Replaced them with Brass Marine plugs which are still there today. I  
remember that at least 2 plugs had rot holes in them, and the only  
thing keeping in the water was the Mud.

Not recommended for many reasons, but it worked for me.
Ray

\

On Sep 2, 2009, at 4:40 PM, Richard Barber wrote:


Acidizing chemical plant process piping to remove corrosion and deposits
with minimal attack of the good stuff is done with inhibited muriatic
(hydrochloric) acid--often with heat and almost always with  
circulation. I
would not recommend it for motor vehicle (c3oo)ling systems as the
inhibitors prevent attack of metallic components and are carefully  
selected
and dosed for the job.

Disposal of spent acid solution must also be done carefully to protect  
the
environment, eyes, skin, paint, garage floors, sewer piping and the
wastewater treatment plant. If you decide to play boy chemist, rubber
gloves and goggles are recommended--as well as plastic (not galvanized)
buckets to catch the cleaning solution.

C-300'ly,
Rich Barber
1955 Chrysler C-300



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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