[Chrysler300] Meadowbrook Concours - Executive Director

["Gary Runkel" <moparfan@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Group,

Here's a fantastic opportunity for one of our very sophisticated club
members. Looks like one of those jobs where you might look back and say, "I
can't believe they PAID me to do this!!" It would also give you the
opportunity to share your 300 restoration experience with those less
fortunate.

 

http://jobs.crainsdetroit.com/c/job.cfm?site_id=5940
<http://jobs.crainsdetroit.com/c/job.cfm?site_id=5940&job=6161451>
&job=6161451

 

300'ly

Gary Runkel

Canton, MI

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Kenneth Wilson
Sent: Monday, November 02, 2009 9:58 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Put on your paint and powder, you shout loud,
I'll shout lo...

 

  

All - My take on clear coat paint is it is still crap - May be OK for 
the Concours circuit or the quick auction sale. But for the average 
collector who does his own car or drives his car frequently to car 
events/tours - the old single stage enamels are the easiest to touch up 
or do spot repairs. Clear coat may be easy for a pro paint shop to 
repair (usually they have to do the whole panel/side to repair a small 
spot) but they charge an arm and a leg. I, a do-it -myself restorer, 
have had terrible results with touch repair on my late model-every day 
car drivers. I have yet had any newer, clear coat cars, last more 
then 5-7 years before the clear coat goes to hell -doesn't happen to 
cars, I have had, with 50 year old paint.

Ken Wilson
62 H

mwl1967@xxxxxxx <mailto:mwl1967%40aol.com>  wrote:

>Hi Larry,
> 
> Don't fear the waterborne paint. I switched my shop over a few months 
>ago in the anticipation that the lunacy that begins in Ca. soon moves east 
>and with Az on your boarder it was only a matter of time before it became 
>mandated by law. At any rate, the OEM's have been using it for years and it

>isn't new technology. Only the base is latex, the clear is the same solvent

>clear. The question becomes whether or not you can get the color you want.
> 
> I also don't know why some folks have against clearcoat. There's 
>nothing that says you've got to lay it on a mile thick and sand and polish
all 
>the texture, or peel, out of it. Find a clean painter who doesn't have to 
>sand out dust, runs etc and you'll likely not know if it's a single stage
or 
>base/clear finish. ( base/clear ) finish is much easier to repair when it 
>gets damaged too.
> 
> Why do you need two gallons? Are you planning on inside panels, trunk, 
>all jambs and undercarriage? At any rate if you really want solvent paint 
>all you've got to do is come across the border and buy it. If you get me a 
>color code I'll let you know which variants are available in PPG
> 
>Mike Laiserin
> 
> 
> 
> 
>In a message dated 11/2/2009 5:31:04 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, 
>JettLarry@xxxxxxx <mailto:JettLarry%40aol.com>  writes:
>
> 
> 
> 
>Back to the 1966 300 M. It has become law in this poorly governed state 
>that ALL auto paint will be water based this month. I want to paint the 
>1966 in the correct Spanish Red it was born it and use some non-clear 
>coated 
>paint. I have found a painter that will put it on if I can provide 2 
>gallons of it. Who can point me in the direction of a supplier of REAL 
>paint? 
>Hopeful in a hopeless state. L Jett
>
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