All - My take on clear coat paint is it is still crap - May be OK for the Concours circuit or the quick auction sale. But for the average collector who does his own car or drives his car frequently to car events/tours - the old single stage enamels are the easiest to touch up or do spot repairs. Clear coat may be easy for a pro paint shop to repair (usually they have to do the whole panel/side to repair a small spot) but they charge an arm and a leg. I, a do-it -myself restorer, have had terrible results with touch repair on my late model-every day car drivers. I have yet had any newer, clear coat cars, last more then 5-7 years before the clear coat goes to hell -doesn't happen to cars, I have had, with 50 year old paint. Ken Wilson 62 H mwl1967@xxxxxxx wrote: >Hi Larry, > > Don't fear the waterborne paint. I switched my shop over a few months >ago in the anticipation that the lunacy that begins in Ca. soon moves east >and with Az on your boarder it was only a matter of time before it became >mandated by law. At any rate, the OEM's have been using it for years and it >isn't new technology. Only the base is latex, the clear is the same solvent >clear. The question becomes whether or not you can get the color you want. > > I also don't know why some folks have against clearcoat. There's >nothing that says you've got to lay it on a mile thick and sand and polish all >the texture, or peel, out of it. Find a clean painter who doesn't have to >sand out dust, runs etc and you'll likely not know if it's a single stage or >base/clear finish. ( base/clear ) finish is much easier to repair when it >gets damaged too. > > Why do you need two gallons? Are you planning on inside panels, trunk, >all jambs and undercarriage? At any rate if you really want solvent paint >all you've got to do is come across the border and buy it. If you get me a >color code I'll let you know which variants are available in PPG > >Mike Laiserin > > > > >In a message dated 11/2/2009 5:31:04 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, >JettLarry@xxxxxxx writes: > > > > >Back to the 1966 300 M. It has become law in this poorly governed state >that ALL auto paint will be water based this month. I want to paint the >1966 in the correct Spanish Red it was born it and use some non-clear >coated >paint. I have found a painter that will put it on if I can provide 2 >gallons of it. Who can point me in the direction of a supplier of REAL >paint? >Hopeful in a hopeless state. L Jett > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > >[Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > >------------------------------------ > >To send a message to this group, send an email to: >Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > >For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > >For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx mailto:Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/