If you do use a flatting agent, add a little bit at a time per the makers directions to a very small amount of your paint. Be sure to weigh your sample amount of paint on a gram scale and measure the precise volume of the flatting agent you put in. Then spray yourself a sample and let it dry _thoroughly_ before you judge whether you like just how flat or glossy it has turned out. You may even want to oven-dry it to be sure, because it will go on glossy and only achieve its final sheen level at its very driest. I think you might like to start out shooting for something like an 80 sheen factor to start and then adjust from there(always measuring the flatting agent carefully). When it finally looks just perfect to you, multiply your measurements to the amount of paint you need for the job and do the deed. Flatness is accomplished by chemicals that disrupt the surface smoothness only - the shine is just hidden underneath. So you can always go back and rub out a too dull surface to shine it up, but your results are likely to be a little uneven. Have fun playing with it! Keith Boonstra christopher beilby wrote: > Rather than use a flattening agent, you will get a semi gloss original looking finish, if your painter does not apply the usual final coats with a high percentage of thinners? > > > > The finish then will be a flattish semi gloss - this may be easier than adding flattening agents, which sometimes can be tricky re just how much they flatten, and often it can be too much. > > > > Christopher Australia - bloody hot here at the minute, 300s still under winter storage dry cover after going in like just a week from 13 weeks of showery winter weather, to now hitting over 100 degrees by 9am > > > > > > > > > To: mwl1967@xxxxxxx > CC: Lettercars@xxxxxxx; mlitsky@xxxxxxxxxxx; Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > From: Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx > Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:07:44 +0000 > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Conv. Top Rail Frame > > > > > > > > There a chance that the color may still be available in lacquer. Since 8355 is already specified as a semi-gloss mix . If you have a local PPG (Ditzler) paint jobber ask about 8355 DAL. Since t he top mechanism is well protected I wouldn't have any durability concerns about using laquer. > > Maybe more lacquer info than you want to know...even full gloss lacquer tends to flatten depending how wet you get the paint coats. We used to polish it to get it right. You don't want to polish top bows. If you're having it painted, tell them is should be semi-gloss and let them worry about it. If you're spraying it I could see asking the paint vendor to include the flattening agent in a separate can so you can alter the gloss...or add a bit of clear to the final coat to get the right semi gloss level. > > My K convert top originally had a white underside and the white bows. When I replaced it in the early 80's the only underside color and pad color available even then was black. It was a white top and I kept the white bows. I didn't even notice the color contrast with the underside after a week or so. > > Jim Krausmann > > Detroit > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: mwl1967@xxxxxxx > To: Lettercars@xxxxxxx, mlitsky@xxxxxxxxxxx, Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 12:05:20 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern > Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Conv. Top Rail Frame > > > > Your painter can add a flattening agent to change the gloss level to suit > your taste. Of course it would be nice to have the original paint chip to > have something to compare to, at least to attempt to have a guide for the > level of gloss. > > Something else to consider; I believe (Gil please chime in here) that the > OEM tops (at least in '64) had the inside material of the top in white. > Presumably to match the Ivory Semi-Gloss of the top mechanism. However, last > time I changed a top I could only find replacements with a black underside. > So.. you might be stressing out over a color and gloss level when it may not > look great against a black underside. Perhaps paint them black? Ugh. If > one can get new replacement tops with the (correct?) white underside please > let me know... I'll get one put aside for my K > > Mike Laiserin > > In a message dated 11/10/2009 8:58:40 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, > lettercars@xxxxxxx writes: > > Mike and All: > The paint specified for the 1964 Chrysler convertible top mechanism is > Ivory Semi-Gloss. The Ditzler (PPG) number for that paint is 8355. I doubt > that will do you much good---as with all the old paints, formulations in > modern chemicals are not available, to my knowledge. Perhaps you can get a > scan, but I don't know if that works with semi-gloss. At any rate, good > luck > with it. > 300ly, Gil C. > Tallahassee, FL > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > _________________________________________________________________ > Looking to move this spring? With all the lastest places, searching has never been easier. Look now! > http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/ > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > ------------------------------------ > > To send a message to this group, send an email to: > Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > > For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm > > For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! 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