It may not apply here, but I mention it anyway - others may offer an opposite view or more detail - this below is about 'bolts/fastners' and using them in old car restoring. 1) Stainless steel against bare metal causes electrolysis - fast corrosion like you sometimes see around battery posts/connections. Regards old cars, you can sometimes see where stainless has accelerated rust if the paint has gone, and stainless has sat against bare metal. Regards restored 300s, moisture and time are likely never to be long enough to see major problems though. Stainless mouoldings are used on old cars everywhere, but only where there plenty of paint, a barrier, to keep away from panel steel. 2) (a) Stainless steel bolts are not normally as high tensile/strength, as steel bolts. (b) again only in odd situations, stainless threads can grab/weld worse than ordinary steel bolts. And the other thing/tip re steel bolts - never zinc plate a dark blue steel finish bolt - than can shatter/break later due to embrittlement caused by some plating processes, unless put in heat oven immediately after plated. The dark blue/black finish on a bolt hints/warns it is a higher tensile - they are the main ones not to plate. Christopher Australia used to use Champion plugs, but last ones tried/used in my 300C were rubbish - switched to NGK, which I now run in near every other higher perf car I have - no problems. Autolite I used for years in my AC Cobra, they were excellent, and probably still might be?! Not so easy to buy here now though. To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: kboonstra@xxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 16:10:53 +0000 Subject: [Chrysler300] Stainless fasteners for restoration - 1957 I'm restoring my '57 C and will be changing over to stainless fasteners wherever plausible. I've nitpicked for too many hours over a four page list of screws, bolts, washers, and nuts to cover what I need to replace virtually everything forward of the firewall with stainless - including the engine, but not the suspension. The set will be as close as possible to original look on the whole variety of fasteners, including indented bolt heads, correct lengths, and even "dog points" on the tips of the 1/4" body bolts as original. I'm obviously using information from my C, but most of it should be the same for a D. So here's the question - It will probably run several hundred dollars (for hundreds of pieces), but I wondered if anyone else would be interested in a part-by-part labeled kit for their own restoration project. Let me know before I get my orders finalized if you are interested. Email me or call me at 616-772-6000. Keith Boonstra _________________________________________________________________ Need a new place to live? Find it on Domain.com.au http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/157631292/direct/01/ [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/