Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 Electrical Mystery!

["Warren Anderson" <wranderson@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

  I have not had any good luck with any mechanical only cable patch. Things introduce resistance, get loose and come apart and are a good place for corrosion to start, and it will start quickly.

  So, I have my fix. This I only use when the price of a new cable is out of sight or not available. Or definately on a motorhome where the cables are long and hard to replace.

  I cut the old cable back to where there is no corrosion. I then add a crimped on copper ring terminal and solder it in place. This terminal is attached to a new top quality short cable with a short 3/8" cap screw and the connection taped and secured. This new short cable (top or side post) can then be replaced cheaply and easily when need be.

   But, on my own equipment, the new bolted connection will actually be  an insulated post (single 3/8" stud terminal that I have no part number for but came from NAPA heavy duty truck parts line) that I secure to something and becomes a nice source of battery power.  This approach also provides for any original (or others added on) power taps to be made to the battery close enough to the battery post but not where corrosion is a problem. 

  NAPA I just remembered can supply short cables with screw terminals or a squeeze clamp and these absolutely don't work either and they are expensive as I remember.

  I think the imports are at long last moving away from the design of mounting fuses on a bracket on the positive battery post which was a bad idea and always caused problems. 

  Now this is not a terribly crafty fix for a real problem but it works great. And, a lot of vehicle manufacturers now use this remote power post arrangement.

  Warren Anderson
  Sedona,AZ

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