RE: [Chrysler300] Cold Floor

["Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx>]

Well put, John.

 

The problem of condensation will occur whether concrete is bare, painted,
coated or covered with vinyl.  It also occurs under rubber trunk and floor
mats and on all metallic and glass surfaces of a 300 stored in an area where
temperatures range from above and below the dew point and any kind of
humidity is present.  That's how the inside chrome and pot metal get
corroded.

 

I think I've seen plastic baggies big enough to enclose a car.  This, plus
some desiccant like silica gel inside the sealed baggie would help prevent
condensation on the car's surfaces.  Heating the floor will work, but is
only possible by placing circulating tubing in the concrete before it sets
up, then pumping warm glycol thru the tubing all winter, keeping it just
warm enough to keep the surface dry.

 

Or in a climate-controlled 10-stall garage with lifts, paint booth, air
compressor, full-time mechanic and body man.

 

Ashes to ashes and rust to rust.  We can only hope to delay the process.

 

C300K'ly,

Rich Barber

Rawlins, WY tonight.

 

  _____  

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of John Holst
Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 5:44 PM
To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] Cold Floor

 

  

I too have a detached garage, 30 x 40 that houses 3 vehicles and shop 
area. It is unheated in Iowa where the temp's can get below zero 
during the winter months. The problem arises in the spring when the 
ground and exposed concrete surfaces warm up outside with the 
seasonal change. The floor in the garage does not heat up nearly as 
fast, and may take 2-3 months longer to warm up, and may stay cooler 
all year than the outside since the sun doesn't shine there (it 
probably stays frozen for a month or more in the spring than the 
ground outside). In the spring when the humidity rises with the 
seasonal change the floor acts just like an ice tea glass or cold 
beer. The condensation forms on the cold floor and can only be 
counted to evaporate when the humidity lowers. The drastic fix would 
be to heat the floor and keep it warm all season (like a warm beer). 
I also have an attached garage with the house that is heated (never 
below 40 deg), and this is not a problem at all (the ground below 
stays above freezing). Stirring up the air with a fan is not the fix, 
but keeping the doors closed when a warm moist air mass moves will 
keep some of the condensate off the floors more effectively. I have 
checked this out with a floor level thermometer against the ambient 
air temperature, and have learned to adapt my usage as required. This 
is all part of living up North.

John Holst, Iowa 300K

At 06:51 PM 9/5/2011, you wrote:
>
>
>now that summer is almost over, i need suggestions on a problem that 
>i should have asked about in the start of summer. my problem is 
>sweating of concrete floor during humid days. here is my situation. 
>i have several collector cars which i store in a non-attached five 
>car garage (not a pole barn). the structure is 40 x 24 - two levels. 
>the lower level has two garage doors - one 16 x 8 and another 8 x 8. 
>there are no windows on the lowel level. i keep my cars covered with 
>car covers. due to rodents (darn red squirrels), i rarely keep my 
>garage doors open. my problem is on how to eliminate sweating on the 
>concrete floors during hot humid weather (not often, but we do get 
>some hot, humid days in wisconsin. when i built the garage, i did 
>not put in a vapor seal for the concrete. the garage walls are 
>insulated and dry walled. so how can i eliminate the sweating on 
>the garage floor or at least lessen the problem.? i am sure members 
>living in southern states
>have this same problem. if i install a couple of ceiling fans, will 
>this help? any suggestions/experience would be greatly appreciated. 
>thanks in advance, jim

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