Hello Everyone, I have experienced this problem here in PA, so I might as well add my 2 cents worth. Unfortunately, the cement floor in my stand-alone garage does not have a vapor seal, so I bought a construction grade roll of plastic (10 mil) and laid strips over the cement. Next, I bought some rubber-coated rain gutter heating tapes and distributed them on the floor around the cars, especially during the fall and spring periods, after connecting them to a temperature-controlled thermostat. This has eliminated condensation problems plus providing safe, low-T, inexpensive heat during winter. The heating tape is not expensive, can easily be rolled up during the summer months, and comes in 200 ft strips (If I remember correctly). Regards, Al ________________________________ From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] on behalf of Rich Barber [c300@xxxxxxx] Sent: Tuesday, September 06, 2011 12:21 AM To: 'John Holst'; chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Cold Floor Well put, John. The problem of condensation will occur whether concrete is bare, painted, coated or covered with vinyl. It also occurs under rubber trunk and floor mats and on all metallic and glass surfaces of a 300 stored in an area where temperatures range from above and below the dew point and any kind of humidity is present. That's how the inside chrome and pot metal get corroded. I think I've seen plastic baggies big enough to enclose a car. This, plus some desiccant like silica gel inside the sealed baggie would help prevent condensation on the car's surfaces. Heating the floor will work, but is only possible by placing circulating tubing in the concrete before it sets up, then pumping warm glycol thru the tubing all winter, keeping it just warm enough to keep the surface dry. Or in a climate-controlled 10-stall garage with lifts, paint booth, air compressor, full-time mechanic and body man. Ashes to ashes and rust to rust. We can only hope to delay the process. C300K'ly, Rich Barber Rawlins, WY tonight. _____ From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:Chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of John Holst Sent: Monday, September 05, 2011 5:44 PM To: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com> Subject: [Chrysler300] Cold Floor I too have a detached garage, 30 x 40 that houses 3 vehicles and shop area. It is unheated in Iowa where the temp's can get below zero during the winter months. The problem arises in the spring when the ground and exposed concrete surfaces warm up outside with the seasonal change. The floor in the garage does not heat up nearly as fast, and may take 2-3 months longer to warm up, and may stay cooler all year than the outside since the sun doesn't shine there (it probably stays frozen for a month or more in the spring than the ground outside). In the spring when the humidity rises with the seasonal change the floor acts just like an ice tea glass or cold beer. The condensation forms on the cold floor and can only be counted to evaporate when the humidity lowers. The drastic fix would be to heat the floor and keep it warm all season (like a warm beer). I also have an attached garage with the house that is heated (never below 40 deg), and this is not a problem at all (the ground below stays above freezing). Stirring up the air with a fan is not the fix, but keeping the doors closed when a warm moist air mass moves will keep some of the condensate off the floors more effectively. I have checked this out with a floor level thermometer against the ambient air temperature, and have learned to adapt my usage as required. This is all part of living up North. John Holst, Iowa 300K At 06:51 PM 9/5/2011, you wrote: > > >now that summer is almost over, i need suggestions on a problem that >i should have asked about in the start of summer. my problem is >sweating of concrete floor during humid days. here is my situation. >i have several collector cars which i store in a non-attached five >car garage (not a pole barn). the structure is 40 x 24 - two levels. >the lower level has two garage doors - one 16 x 8 and another 8 x 8. >there are no windows on the lowel level. i keep my cars covered with >car covers. due to rodents (darn red squirrels), i rarely keep my >garage doors open. my problem is on how to eliminate sweating on the >concrete floors during hot humid weather (not often, but we do get >some hot, humid days in wisconsin. when i built the garage, i did >not put in a vapor seal for the concrete. the garage walls are >insulated and dry walled. so how can i eliminate the sweating on >the garage floor or at least lessen the problem.? i am sure members >living in southern states >have this same problem. if i install a couple of ceiling fans, will >this help? any suggestions/experience would be greatly appreciated. >thanks in advance, jim [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/