RE: [Chrysler300] Garage Plans

["David Schwandt" <finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Morning Gang!!!

Is this going be a pole building??
If so, make sure the holes & poles are below frost level.
Spoke w/a fellow near here last winter whose poles in one corner of his
building have frost heaved about 6"

When I built my bldg. back in '77  I placed 1-1/2" foam insulation under the
concrete in the section that I heat in the winter.
Also we filled the pole holes w/concrete and inserted an "L" shaped piece of
re-bar down into the concrete on each side
Of the poles. Then later I dug a shallow footing between the poles,  formed
the inside up to the top of the treated outside stringer
And poured a short wall section between each post. The floor butts up
against this wall. My lot was not exactly level on one side and this wall
Retains the fill I had to place before pouring  the floor on that side.

I have been thinking lift myself here latey as it's becoming a real PITA to
get down and under a vehicle any more. So I will be interested in
What you guys have to say in that respect.

As for the rest....Insulate, insulate, and repeat as necessary!!!  The same
for wire, wire , wire and plumb, plumb, plumb!!!

Dave Schwandt in Eastern -5 degree IA

And YES....I'll be in the shop today!!! Me and my cat that is!!!

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On
Behalf Of Michael Moore
Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 6:05 PM
To: Ray Jones
Cc: Chrysler 300 Broadcast
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Garage Plans

I would install  piping for air service all over also.
I would make sure I had one area, sufficient to hold all 4 wheels at once,
that was as level as I could make it. Good for welding, laying out stuff,
working on suspensions etc where you need level.
Mike Moore



On Jan 17, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ray Jones wrote:

> Always exciting to plan.
> I agree with Billlll. If you have the room, go bigger. It usually does not
cost much more. 
> If you talk to anyone who built a shop, you will NEVER find one who will
say It's too big.
> My shop is 30 X 50 and was here when I bought the property. I added a 23'
X 60' car open shed on one side. I bought used roof metal at an auction and
it was 23' long, just right, paid $50 for the stack and still have some left
over.
> My shop can be seen on the 300 Clubs website in the tech section. I wrote
an article about installing a lift in my shop which has 10' sidewalls. I
built the lift into the center truss and used it as a support. Lift cost was
$1850.00 delivered, 5 yrs. ago, may be cheaper now, get on the email list
and watch for sales.
> 
> I love the lift, well built, USA made and here's the contact:
> 
> American Automotive Equipment
> 3 Rye Ridge Plaza
> Port Chester, NY 10573
> Phone: +1 914-690-9010
> Email: sales@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> 
> Building a shop bigger works along the lines that once they are pouring
the slab, bigger is just a little more framing and a few more yards of
concrete. Same goes for the trusses and walls. Price wider trusses, see what
the cost of adding 10 more feet to the length would be and again, if you
have the room, beggar is more gooder.
> 
> In your area, cold is the rule I guess, so use at least 2X6 walls, and
ONLY use cellulose insulation. 12' side walls, minimum. and keep in mind
that a real lift needs 12' 6" for an overhead lift. These keep the cables
and hoses above going from one side to the other. Avoid the ones that have
these going across the floor from side to side. A royal pain when using a
jack under the car. 
> 
> Panel the ceiling and add 8" of cellulose across the top. At the bottom of
all the walls, trim with 2 X 6 treated lumber (so wet won't hurt it) and
then you can use drywall up from there for 1 row. Second row use 3/4"
plywood all the way around the shop so you can attach whatever anywhere you
want and don't need a stud. Drywall the rest. Ad 4 rows of shop lights, I
have about 20, 2 bulb lights and each row is on a separate switch. I also
built a office/storage/parts room in one corner, 10 X 20'.
> Do ALL this before the first car comes in or you'll never get it all done.
Once you start working in it, clutter keeps you from finishing.
> 
> My cabinets came from Harbor Freight. They still have them, watch the ads
for sales on them. They are metal with metal pegboard backs, come with 3
shelves for each and pegboard hooks and shelf supports. They are about 4'
long and 30" tall and most importantly only 8" deep. You can't bury anything
way in the back to never be seen again. 
> 
> AS to heat, I have Geo-therm and it costs me $35.00 a month averaged over
2 years, to heat and cool. I keep it @ 75° in the summer and about 60° in
the winter, I may turn it up or down depending on how much I'm working in
it.
> 
> A heated floor will make a lot of difference also, but more bucks to
install, but may save on heat later. Look into it.
> 
> Last, talk to several contractors, shop owners, builders and suchlike and
ask for their experiences/recommendations doing quality jobs in your area.
> 
> Good luck, Ray in Arkansas.
> 
> On Jan 17, 2012, at 5:20 PM, Bill Leahy wrote:
> 
> charlie, i built my new garage 24x30 and wished i had 30x30 / these 
> dang cars are longer than ya think / billllllll in windy kennewick, 
> washington
> 
> On Jan 17, 2012, at 3:17 PM, charlies@xxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> 
> > Hi Group,
> > While this does not directly relate to 300 autos, it will someday be 
> > the home and restoration centre for these beasts. I'm in the 
> > planning stages of building a workshop for my wrenching - tired of 
> > working on gravel and at minus whatever. The size of the wokshop 
> > will be 24 x 40 and will have a lift. I'd be interested to hear any 
> > sort of recomendations that any members may have in regard to my new 
> > wokshop - what worked well or didn't work well in some of your shops 
> > - or what they may have done differently or added. Thanks to all, 
> > Charlie in Ottawa, 62 Sport
> > 
> 
> 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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