I have known of at least two very expensive collector cars (7 fig, of Italian origin) and perhaps others, undiagnosed, which have been totally lost due to a malfunction in the ammeter gauge. In one case the fire was unnoticed before it damaged several others in storage. Considering that amp gauges display (read through the armature of the gauge) the total amperage being drawn through the battery. A good option in the early 20th century. In the case of a gauge failure (short circuit), the battery has a direct path to ground and this is what causes the melting and subsequent fire. The remedy is to install a fusible resistor or thermister in series at the gauge which will open the circuit if the gauge or circuit overloads (also be cautious of gauges not displaying correctly). That is if you wish to keep the originality of the gauge package. My choice is to replace the AMP. gauge with a Volt metering gauge (which reads across hot to ground) and is much more useful in determining if the generator / alternator is providing the proper charging voltage (now that most collectors know what voltage the battery requires to obtain charge). If this gauge fails it just stops working....and it is destroyed, not the car. John ----- Original Message ----- From: "David" <torquechap@xxxxxxxxx> To: "Rich Barber-Desktop" <c300@xxxxxxx> Cc: "<chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>, "Larry & Sandy Jett" <JettLarry@xxxxxxx>, "<kmaniak@xxxxxxx>" <kmaniak@xxxxxxx>, "Don Cole" <Mr300K@xxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, June 18, 2012 6:09:43 AM Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Fire by wire-'64K Hi Rich, Similar tale. In reconnecting my battery shortly after taking possession of my Ram K Convt, there was a thin wisp of smoke at both the battery terminal and firewall. I immediately disconnected the wire and fortunately avoided a fire. The harness melted (wires fused, actually) from the battery into the dash and the ammeter was toasted. While installing a NOS wire harness and NOS ammeter we also added a fusible link as per a suggestion you kindly shared with me. To be doubly safe, I keep an extinguisher now in the car and keep the negative terminal on loosely so it can be quick disconnected by hand. Also, the negative lead is ALWAYS kept off the battery whenever the car is stored (even if I'm using a battery tender). Applying the same insights to my L. 300KL'y, David A. Morrison Radnor, PA Sent via mobile (610) 940-1557 On Jun 18, 2012, at 2:08 AM, "Rich Barber-Desktop" < c300@xxxxxxx > wrote: > Several days ago we experienced a small under hood fire on our '64K > convertible while under restoration. The worst damage was at the main feed > wire to the bulkhead connector which had become overheated while operating a > power window motor with the battery connected normally and on a charger. > Under dash and under hood harnesses were damaged, but the battery and > charger were quickly disconnected, putting out the burning insulation. A > used dash harness was located and purchased and we are investigating repair > vs. replacement of the main engine harness which includes nearly everything > under the hood. As we investigated the cause of the fire, we observed > corroded and broken strands on the 12 ga. red feed wire to the ammeter and > believe this high resistance joint (just before the bulkhead connector) > initiated the overheating and subsequent damage to the dash harness. > > The questions we have are based on the Service Manual wiring diagram for the > '64 Chrysler which shows an alternative wiring diagram for the connection > between the Battery terminal on the starter relay and a separate terminal > block where it meets the 12 ga. red wire feed and the 40 Amp "safety link" > to the horn relay. The alternate connection is via wire A-1B, a 16 ga. dark > blue wire with tracer and referred to as a "safety link" with no indicated > capacity. It is assumed the safety links are fusible links. Our early > (Dec) car does not have this valuable safety modification > > It appears this may have been a mid-year addition/modification-perhaps even > a recall type of mod. > > Questions: > > Has anyone any knowledge of this alternate wiring? > > Do you have a car so equipped? > > If so, can you send a picture? > > Any thoughts on adding a fusible link or a circuit breaker? > > Any thoughts on an appropriate rated capacity of the link or circuit > breaker? The alternator is rated at 39 Amps, but it is possible and likely > that some additional current may be drawn from the battery when alternator > output is less than the required load. Loss of this link would result in > loss of all the electrical circuits, including ignition, other than the > power to the starter/solenoid. > > Is it common for the fusible/safety link to be a relatively tiny wire (16 > ga.)? > > I would like to hear from '64 Chrysler owners on whether or not their car is > equipped with the safety link. > > Thanks in advance for your observations, experience and knowledge. > > C-300-K'ly, > > Rich Barber > > 1801 Redwine Terrace > > Brentwood, CA 94513-6000 > > Home: (925) 513-6583 > > Cell: (925) 783-4893 > > e-mail: c300@xxxxxxx > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] > > > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! 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