I had this discussion with John Hertog about 10 years ago when I found he was powder coating an engine and wondered why. After some debate, he eventually agreed with me that powder coating wasn't really a great choice for engines, especially when performing a real restoration. (Perhaps he agreed just to end the discussion.....) In my opinion, powder coating looks great and is a fantastic coating for many things; engines are not one of those things, if you want it to look like it should. For less money and greater ease you can paint an engine yourself with good quality primers and paints and get a much more authentic, long lasting finish. Just my two cents. Ryan Hill In rainy (as usual) Vancouver, B.C. To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:10:07 -0800 Subject: [Chrysler300] Powder Coat rams I've got to chime in on the engine powder coat question as well, if I might. In 1985, I had my rams and valve covers powder coated on my 300G. Now the valve covers are black and the rams are red, so it is a bit different situation than the 300K. I've never had a problem with the black parts, they have held up well. The red rams though, turned a lighter, almost pinkish color after about 10+ years. Why? I really don't know, the black stayed black, but the red didn't. My point is that powder coating is not necessarily the absolute best way to go in every situation, as many people believe. For one thing, it is very difficult to remove if the need arises. Abrasive blasting is about the only way to get it off, and you must use an aggressive media to do it. Any screw thread hole that get coated must be rethreaded with a tap or die to get the threads into spec again. In building on Mike's point, if the engine block will be painted conventionally, and the rams and valve covers powder coated, you may find yourself with a mismatch at some point in the future you had not anticipated. Having said that, you can always paint over the powder coat with conventional engine paints, that's what I did on my rams, by hand mind you, with an artists' brush, and they came out looking great, but an engine block repaint would be more difficult. Bob J Hi Larry, You probably already know this but I wasn't sure by the way your message reads; The entire engine is turquoise, not just the rams and valve covers. Also, why powder coat? Harder to touch up if needed and you still need to match spray able color for the rest. I can probably find the formula I mixed to closely resemble the old plasticoat #210 turquoise which Gil said was a good match. A single stage urethane applied over either epoxy or self-etch primer is very durable. Mike Laiserin [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join and select the "Leave Group" button For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylangYahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: Chrysler300-digest@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Chrysler300-fullfeatured@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: Chrysler300-unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/