Re: [Chrysler300] Powder Coat rams

[retromobilia@xxxxxxxxxxx]

Ryan, I agree with you assessment for not power coating the engine block. Being that the block has factors like heat and oil and slightly porous. The RAM tubes, on the other hand, are basically attachments and do not carry the same factors as the block. Furthermore, the power coatings have become so advanced not that you can match any color or texture to insure originality. 
JJ 300F 

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ryan Hill" <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> 
To: "Bob Jasinski" <rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx>, "Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx" <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> 
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2013 11:45:46 AM 
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Powder Coat rams 

I had this discussion with John Hertog about 10 years ago when I found he was powder coating an engine and wondered why. After some debate, he eventually agreed with me that powder coating wasn't really a great choice for engines, especially when performing a real restoration. (Perhaps he agreed just to end the discussion.....) In my opinion, powder coating looks great and is a fantastic coating for many things; engines are not one of those things, if you want it to look like it should. For less money and greater ease you can paint an engine yourself with good quality primers and paints and get a much more authentic, long lasting finish. 
Just my two cents. 

Ryan Hill In rainy (as usual) Vancouver, B.C. 

To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx 
From: rpjasin@xxxxxxxxxxx 
Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2013 10:10:07 -0800 
Subject: [Chrysler300] Powder Coat rams 


























I've got to chime in on the engine powder coat question as well, if I might. 

In 1985, I had my rams and valve covers powder coated on my 300G. Now the 

valve covers are black and the rams are red, so it is a bit different 

situation than the 300K. I've never had a problem with the black parts, 

they have held up well. 



The red rams though, turned a lighter, almost pinkish color after about 10+ 

years. Why? I really don't know, the black stayed black, but the red 

didn't. My point is that powder coating is not necessarily the absolute 

best way to go in every situation, as many people believe. For one thing, 

it is very difficult to remove if the need arises. Abrasive blasting is 

about the only way to get it off, and you must use an aggressive media to do 

it. Any screw thread hole that get coated must be rethreaded with a tap or 

die to get the threads into spec again. 



In building on Mike's point, if the engine block will be painted 

conventionally, and the rams and valve covers powder coated, you may find 

yourself with a mismatch at some point in the future you had not 

anticipated. 



Having said that, you can always paint over the powder coat with 

conventional engine paints, that's what I did on my rams, by hand mind you, 

with an artists' brush, and they came out looking great, but an engine block 

repaint would be more difficult. 



Bob J 





Hi Larry, 



You probably already know this but I wasn't sure by the way your message 

reads; The entire engine is turquoise, not just the rams and valve covers. 

Also, why powder coat? Harder to touch up if needed and you still need to 

match spray able color for the rest. I can probably find the formula I mixed 

to closely resemble the old plasticoat #210 turquoise which Gil said was a 

good match. 

A single stage urethane applied over either epoxy or self-etch primer is 

very durable. 



Mike Laiserin 



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