Re: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil changes

[Thomas DeBusk <tleed@xxxxxxxx>]

Both bondo & primer pass moisture.

Thomas DeBusk
540-818-0767
Sent from my iPhone

On Feb 24, 2013, at 5:44 AM, Michael Moore <mmoore8425@xxxxxxx> wrote:

> Several years ago, I bought a "project" car (A Jaguar E Type). The PO had bought the car when retired at age 60. He had rebuilt the engine first. Then followed 20 years of 
> miscellaneous body work, interior etc, and storage. By age 80, he had lost interest, and I ended up with the car. I removed and disassembled the "rebuilt engine" for inspection. The brand new main and rod bearings had huge pits in them on the bearing surface. There was plenty of oil in the engine, and it did not look cloudy or black, but his bearings corroded badly. I do not know the history exactly except it spent its 20 years in a warehouse in Stockton, Ca. and the bearings were new initially when the crank was turned 20 years earlier.I also do not understand the physics. The car also had been stripped to bare metal, and had a skim coat of bondo applied, and had a primer applied over the bondo. It looked like it just needed a finish coat. But when I sanded through the bondo, the body had rusted everywhere the bondo was on the bare steel and it all had to be redone also.
> Mike Moore
> 
> On Feb 23, 2013, at 10:05 PM, Keith Boonstra wrote:
> 
> I'm probably as guilty as the next guy in going a few years between 
> engine oil changes in cars I seldom put miles on. With high quality 
> oils - and in some cases we're using the ultra-durable synthetics - I 
> hardly think degradation of the oil itself is likely to be an issue. 
> But the intrusion of moisture just might.
> 
> We often speak of the intrusion of moisture into our gas tanks caused by 
> the "breathing" that naturally occurs as the ambient temperatures rise 
> and fall while our cars sit idle. But I've never read of any concern 
> about the same thing happening in our oil pans. And yet it must 
> certainly occur.
> 
> I can't imagine a significant amount of H2O emulsified in the engine oil 
> wouldn't be potentially harmful, and that could certainly happen over a 
> few years of uncontrolled-atmosphere storage. And one other negative 
> that my engine builder was sharp enough to pick up on, is that the 
> moisture will settle on the bottom of the oil in the pan and actually 
> rust it out from the inside. So before he installed my pan, he brushed 
> a very tough moisture-barrier paint on the interior of it to prevent any 
> rust from forming.
> 
> One saving factor, however, is that while the moisture caught in the 
> fuel causes problems because it can only escape through the carburetor, 
> moisture that has intruded the oil pan will be quickly boiled out IF we 
> get the oil hot with some regularity by running the engine.
> 
> The bottom line then comes out somewhat the opposite of initial 
> intuition - within limits we ought to change the oil more often the less 
> we drive a car. Or better yet, don't ever let a car sit that long 
> without shaking it out. It's a shame to do that anyway. Then it 
> shouldn't be harmful to run a few thousand miles on a change if the oil 
> continues to look clean on the stick.
> 
> Keith Boonstra
> 
> On 2/23/2013 4:51 PM, Jim Kelly wrote:
>> 
>> we are getting closer to the time of starting up our collector cars 
>> that have been in storage. I own several. i drive each one about 100 
>> miles per year, sometimes even less. i use valvoline vr1 racing oil. 
>> when i store them away in the fall, i don't start them up until 
>> spring. my question: with this scenario, how ofter should i change the 
>> oil. if i change the oil every year, it comes out looking like honey. 
>> i am assuming i am just throwing money out the window by changing oil 
>> so ofter. any suggestions on how ofter i should change the oil in 
>> these cars? thanks in advance, jim
>> 
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> 
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> 
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