RE: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil changes

[Larry Jabin <larry@xxxxxxxxxx>]

Rip

Could you tell us more about your results with adding this oil to the fuel

Thank You

Larry


From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of CAROLL RIPLEY
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 3:50 AM
To: Steve Albu; Jim Kelly
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil changes



Steve:

Regarding our crappy fuel and ethanol, you may want to check out the info in the following link from the LS1 forum:

    http://www.ls1.com/forums/f48/been-testing-91206/

I have been using marine two-stroke oil (one ounce to every five gallons) in all my cars for several years now, and it works very well.

Please ignore some of the colorful language you may encounter over at LS1. . .

Rip


________________________________
From: Steve Albu saforwardlook@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:saforwardlook%40gmail.com>>
To: Jim Kelly gmman4@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:gmman4%40yahoo.com>>
Cc: "chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>" chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx<mailto:chrysler300%40yahoogroups.com>>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2013 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] frequency of oil changes

Interesting that you ask that question, as I also had the same one and
decided to call the technical support folks at Valvoline and Shell about
it.  The answer I got was that if the oil isn't dark looking, don't waste
your money on changing the oil.  The tech guys said that contamination
causes the brownish to black evolution of used oil colors that take place
over mileage and time.  Contamination can come from carbon particles from
the combustion process and minute rust particles from excess humidity in
given climates that can materialize in both the crankcase and fuel tank.  I
live in California and drive my cars seldom and the humidity is typically
low, and with being garaged all the time, I can go 5 years or so without
any effects at all.  When the oil starts to get a little brown, I usually
decide to change it even though it could probably go much longer.

What is more problematic to me is the crappy ethanol laden gasoline that
turns to varnish in something like a year even under ideal conditions,
leaving my needle/seats in the float mechanism stuck open or stuck closed
when I go to try and start a car after letting it sit for a long period of
time.  Thus the car will either not start or the engine will flood quickly,
and can lead to hydraulic lock up and engine damage if the cylinders fill
up with too much gasoline.  And then the accelerator pumps don't work
either because that needle sticks closed too. hear that Stabil has a newly
formulated product that should greatly diminish these effects, but I have
not tried it yet.  Does anyone have a solution to this problem or
experience with the new Stabil?  I will need to drive my cars more often
and change the fuel more than once per year to keep things working well.
But then what do I do with the used fuel?  So much for ethanol in gasoline
- a bad idea at best.

Steve Albu

On Sat, Feb 23, 2013 at 1:51 PM, Jim Kelly gmman4@xxxxxxxxx<mailto:gmman4%40yahoo.com>> wrote:

> **
>
>
> we are getting closer to the time of starting up our collector cars that
> have been in storage. I own several. i drive each one about 100 miles per
> year, sometimes even less. i use valvoline vr1 racing oil. when i store
> them away in the fall, i don't start them up until spring. my question:
> with this scenario, how ofter should i change the oil. if i change the oil
> every year, it comes out looking like honey. i am assuming i am just
> throwing money out the window by changing oil so ofter. any suggestions on
> how ofter i should change the oil in these cars? thanks in advance, jim
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>

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