Re: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure

What I have found over the too many years I have worked on these critters, is that "Use 'em or lose "em" Applies.

Usually, it they don't work it's because corrosion or just plain dirt have covered the commutator and the brushes can not pass the power.

Often, when one window would not work I would just slam the panel with my hand while working the switch and the jarring would be enough to start it running.

Then I would just operate it for a while to clean the contact area. Fixed many of them that way.

Another thing touched on in these answers is the tracks. Silicone the crap out of them, literately using the straw, have silicone running down the tracks. Makes a huge difference.

A key thing to remember here is that the motors are reversible. They have 2 wires into the motor and one is + and the other is -. the housing is not part of the electrical path. Many folks have tried to make them work by applying ground to the housing and then power to each contact. Won't work. Apply power to one contact and ground to the other. the Motor will run one way and if you switch the wires, it will run the other.

Finally, these motors were used into the 90's in many Mopar models including trucks.
I have found there are 2 styles, 1 for the LF and RR and the other is for the RF and LR. Those rear motors are often overlooked in junk or part cars, but you can take the rear motor from the opposite side to replace the door motor which is inop.

Ray in Hot Mena.

On Fri, Sep 5, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Anna F Noia sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

John

I'm learning alot her about power windows. Mine seem to be stuck, when power is applied they don't turn. (that's out of the car, disconnected from the window regulator). How do you service the motor? Is there an easy method, or should I send them out for refurish or overhaul? I have six to do this to and that gets a little pricey, four windows and two vents. Any suggestions, insights on what I can do, or on who or where to send them? Also expected costs? Thanks in advance.

Best Regards,
Stephen A. Noia
1-408-210-4736 cell

From: "'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: 'Gary Nelson' <gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>; 'Terry Mctaggart' <terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx>; 'Listserver Chrysler Club' <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, September 4, 2014 2:25 PM
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure

No ---been in these 20 times over thirty years; the nylon gear ring on periphery hardens a lot, it is fragile like glass, sort of shrinks, and breaks in tension between two teeth ; then it spins freely around periphery . Note that teeth are not broken off, usually; I agree regreasing helps the box a lot, it needs it, but loads in this gear are very high (that spring is POTENT) ---compared to anything hard grease can possibly do, in terms of loading it or adding friction-- and grease is generally hardened off to one side not in the gear mesh at all ; box would work ok dry but wear out, which wear, grease would stop. Shrinking of old nylon is like Mercedes(German rubber) vacuum line elbows. After a awhile it is done for , in petroleum.

Further, greatly added friction in window lifts, especially back window on 2 dr hardtop, is probably the proximal cause, as those little rollers are off the track , dirty , stuck, flat sided, or worn out, or window misadjusted, new weather-strip adds a lot of drag, overloading everything . Does your slow down in the middle of rising, or rise slow? Going toward this problem. Had to make those rollers too. J-Y has them….

While on this, I drill an .060 hole at low point in end cover after cleaning motor brushes, that whole area, to let incidental water out, as internal snap type circuit breaker there is often rusted, or connection /contact points corroded . that stops motor . there to prevent burnout if a kid (?) holds down pw switch . If bad, I jump them out with wire /solder, to save motor. If someone holds down sw! itch, or overdoes it, so be it. Most of us know better. The little cap of plastic between motor and gear box is there to throw water off .

John

Cambridge Mass, land of Harvard.

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Gary Nelson' gnelson@xxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2014 12:26 PM
To: Terry Mctaggart; Listserver Chrysler Club
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure

Not the gear box fault. You must remove all the old dried grease on tracks and replace with a non hardening grease. Gear boxes should last another 50 years.

Thank you,
Gary, the parts doc
Escondido, CA USA
Land of the Avocado
Mail: garythepartsdoc@xxxxxxxxxxxx
760.751.1958

-----Original Message-----
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx]On Behalf Of Terry Mctaggart terrymct999@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2014 5:37 PM
To: Listserver Chrysler Club
Subject: [Chrysler300] Power Window Gearbox Failure

Terry McTaggart here. Over the last few years, I have experianced two failures in the power window gearboxes in my 300F. Both failures were identical, in that the plastic gear teeth surrounding the metal disk inside the gearbox broke, rendering the gearbox useless. Fortunately I had two spares in the attic and was able to replace the offending part. Now, however, I have no more spares and the next failure (if there is one) will be a major problem. Has anyone else experienced this failure, and if so, might this be a good project for the repro committee?

--
Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?