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You know you need Spark, Fuel....and compression. It must suck to do a compression test on a ram car but I'd be getting some readings on some of your easier to access cylinders. Your friend may be onto something with the washdown theory, especially if you used an entire can of ether to to try and draw fuel through the lines. If you get low readings, probably in the 40 - 50 psi area, it's either a valve issue (unlikely) or lack of oil on the cylinder walls. Usually a few squirts of motor oil in each cylinder before reinstalling the plugs will correct the problem and restore compression. It's messy but I prefer to crank over the engine and recheck the compression before installing the plugs. If the washdown is your problem, you will see the compression return after a few cranks. Reinstall plugs and don't repeat the mistake of using starter fluid like that.
Another thing to consider that I learned the hard way. Hanging a bag of fuel and gravity feeding an engine can be very dangerous, especially on a car with a possible fuel delivery issue. If your needle and seat are stuck open, which can easily happen on a car that's been sitting with old fuel in it, the fuel will overfill the bowls and flood the cylinders. Washdown will occur for sure but the biggest risk is if you crank over the engine with a significant amount of fuel in the cylinder(s). You will bend connecting rods and probably do alot of valvetrain damage. Monitor how much fuel is in the feed tank and whether it's being consumed while the engine isn't running. In my case, I caught the fact that more than a litre of fuel had dissapeared in less than 5 minutes while the engine wasn't running and drained the cylinders, and the engine of all of the fuel. I was lucky. Ryan Hill To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx From: Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2015 16:30:55 -0500 Subject: [Chrysler300] spark & fuel... no start Hey all,
I've negelected my 300K and it's punishing me. Having moved on to modern EFI hotrods my stock carbureted ram engine is throwing a hissy fit and punishing me. Nearly two years ago I had a brake failure and left it in the garage. It's started once every six months or so just because... but now that I decided it's time to go through the brakes it wont start. Here's where I am... All fuel evaporated out of the carbs and I used an entire can of spray start to get the fuel pump to bring the ancient gas (can you call it gas these days?) up to the carbs but no luck. I figured the 22 year old pump had dry rotted. I rigged an old Gumout and Kit to hang IV style to feed fresh fuel into the carbs to start it. One good backfire, an exploded muffler somewhere along the way but no run. The fuel pump did finally pull some of the fresh ten gallons I eventually put in the tank so I reconnected the fuel line. Confirmed spark at the plug end of the wires.. nice bluish spark (it's a mopar electronic ignition kit been on there since 1992 ( about the last time the car was tuned). Started pulling plugs and nasty, dark, raw fuel smelling and a few with some carbon and a little oil buildup. Ok.. simple enough .. time for plugs I thought. Yeah right... this car's pissed at all the other toys I've added to the garage and she's being a bitch. All new plugs go in ( I forgot what a chore that is with the rams on top) and guess what... no start... doesn't even sound like it's wanting to. Yep... checked fuel and spark again.. still there. The starter is cranking at full speed... almost too fast. Like there's no compression. But not that sound that an engine makes with a bad timing chain if you know what I mean. So it's a double roller chain in there anyway. I thought If the mechanical advance had stuck in the distributor that might be it but no... it would be stuck in advance if that were the case. I know how an engine sounds when it's got too much advance when you try to start it and this isn't it. A buddy suggested a few valves might be stuck from running on the crappy gas left in the tank over the last few years. Hmm... but all the valves? I can see the engine starting, running crappy and maybe bending a few valves in the process but again... this engine is cranking at full speed and doesn't even sound close. Another friend though it's been running so rich and was so flooded that I washed all the oil from the rings and now there's not enough compression to kick it over. It was a worn , beat on engine in the car but it ran pretty good. Last time it ran it warmed up to temp.. maybe 15 minutes, a few blips of the throttle to blow the carbon out of my garage and into the neighbors yard and I shut it down with no hint of anything being wrong. Any thoughts? I know I'm overlooking something. Sigh... Mike Laiserin __._,_.___ Posted by: Ryan Hill <ryan_hillc300@xxxxxxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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