Re: [Chrysler300] spark & fuel... no start

["paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

On 2/2/2015 4:30 PM, Mwl1967 mwl1967@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:
> Hey all,

> I've negelected my 300K and it's punishing me. Having moved on to
> modern EFI hotrods my stock carbureted ram engine is throwing a
> hissy fit and punishing me. Nearly two years ago I had a brake
> failure and left it in the garage. It's started once every six months
> or so just because...  but now that I decided it's time to go through
> the brakes it wont start. Here's where I am... All fuel evaporated
> out of the carbs and I used an entire can of spray start to get the
> fuel pump to bring the ancient gas (can you call it gas these days?)
> up to the carbs but no luck. I figured the 22 year old pump had dry
> rotted. I rigged an old Gumout and Kit to hang IV style to feed fresh
> fuel into the carbs to start it. One good backfire, an exploded
> muffler somewhere along the way but no run. The fuel pump did finally
> pull some of the fresh ten gallons I eventually put in the tank so I
> reconnected the fuel line.  Confirmed spark at the plug end of the
> wires.. nice bluish spark (it's a mopar electronic ignition kit been
> on there since 1992 ( about the last time the car was tuned). Started
> pulling plugs and nasty, dark, raw fuel smelling and a few with some
> carbon and a little oil buildup. Ok.. simple enough .. time for plugs
> I thought. Yeah right... this car's pissed at all the other toys I've
> added to the garage and she's being a bitch. All new plugs go in ( I
> forgot what a chore that is with the rams on top) and guess what...
> no start... doesn't even sound like it's wanting to. Yep... checked
> fuel and spark again.. still there. The starter is cranking at full
> speed... almost too fast. Like there's no compression. But not that
> sound that an engine makes with a bad timing chain if you know what I
> mean. So it's a double roller chain in there anyway. I thought If the
> mechanical advance had stuck in the distributor that might be it but
> no... it would be stuck in advance if that were the case. I know how
> an engine sounds when it's got too much advance when you try to start
> it and this isn't! it. A buddy suggested a few valves might be stuck
> from running on the crappy gas left in the tank over the last few
> years. Hmm... but all the valves? I can see the engine starting,
> running crappy and maybe bending a few valves in the process but
> again... this engine is cranking at full speed and doesn't even sound
> close. Another friend though it's been running so rich and was so
> flooded that I washed all the oil from the rings and now there's not
> enough compression to kick it over.  It was a worn , beat on engine
> in the car but it ran pretty good. Last time it ran it warmed up to
> temp.. maybe 15 minutes, a few blips of the throttle to blow the
> carbon out of my garage and into the neighbors yard and I shut it
> down with no hint of anything being wrong.  Any thoughts? I know I'm
> overlooking something. Sigh...

> Mike Laiserin

Years ago, probably early 1980's, we had a sudden sharp temperature drop
from about 23F to -20F over night. Car, 1973 New Port didn't like that.
It fought starting, so I got a can of starting fluid out and had a go at
trying that.  MISTAKE!!! Or I just didn't get it right, either way car
stayed dead. Had to towed to Dealer for a warmup indoors and diagnose
the no start condition.

Report from mechanic, had to drain oil pan, had 4 quarts oil, 3-1/2
gallons of gas. Had pumped a Lot of gas past the rings using the
starting fluid. Guess in that severe cold snap the starting fluid
allowed the rings to pass most of the gas I was trying to get to fire in
the cylinders past them and into the earl pan.

SO before going too far, maybe check the oil dippystick for fluid levels.
May have to drain earl pan by now.

FrankenTruck sits some, and since it carbinated, if I let it go maybe a
month without starting I just remove the air cleaner top and dribble a
SMALL stream of gas into the carb opening. Let it sit a few minutes,
to atomize a little, then I'll give the starter a crank, All because
I know the carb bowls will be dry, no gas. It usually fires up that way,
if I don't dribble enough for the brief running to pump from the tank,
when it sputters out I repeat the process. Should mention, KEY off :-)
And I replace the air cleaner top before trying to start it.


-- 
Paul Holmgren
If No one comes from the future to stop you from doing it,
then how bad of a decision can it really be?


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Posted by: paul <paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
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