Re: [Chrysler300] Heed: the BLEED

["Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

You are right, I am more of a '65 and up kinda guy.
Ray

On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 3:46 PM, David Schwandt <finsruskw@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
wrote:

> Ray, It seems you are forgetting what a PITA it is to gain access to the
> MC on the 57-61 cars!!
>
> You can barely SEE the MC let alone dump a can into it.
>
> I have a handy little gismo/valve/clear hose dealie I picked up at Wally
> World years ago that screw onto the fluid container so you can control the
> on-off of the fluid while filling the MC.
>
>
>
> *From:* Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] *On
> Behalf Of *Ray Jones 1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
> *Sent:* Monday, March 02, 2015 3:21 PM
> *To:* Larry Jett
> *Cc:* chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> *Subject:* Re: [Chrysler300] Heed: the BLEED
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Over the years, Many, Many times the problem with uneven braking has been
> the flex hose from the wheel cyl. to the frame. They tend to deteriorate
> inside and a piece of hose dangles down acting as a 1 way valve. Hose seems
> OK, may allow fluid to ether WC, but not back, leaving the brake applied.
> Or, blocking some/all the flow to the WC preventing it from working
> properly.
>
> I have had a mityvac for probably 50 years, plus a newer one made of
> metal. A great tool for bleeding alone. I would pour the brake fluid in the
> master cyl. and then just stick the BF container into the reservoir upside
> down to ensure enough fluid.
>
> Won't run over, but won't run out of fluid.
>
> There are also tools to pressure bleed, applying pressure to the MC and
> going around and opening valves into containers. This is helpful if doing
> it alone. Don't need a 13 year old on the pedal.
>
> Ray in sunny Mena, 60's tomorrow but then it turns to crap with more snow
> on the way.
>
> Nice here as it only last a day...
>
>
>
>
>
> On Mon, Mar 2, 2015 at 11:27 AM, Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx
> [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
>
>
>
> Always learning......like the idea of adjusting the drums tight to the
> shoes to eliminate the possibility of adjustment being part of the problem
> while trying to get a pedal.  Also am learning to cap off either the front
> or rear brakes temporarily with brass from NAPA so as to rule out 50% at a
> time of air leaks when all  cylinders and hoses have been replaced.  Most
> replacement master cylinders instruction sheet tell to bench bleed the
> master before putting on the car but like the plan for a brake line being
> bent to take and give from and to the master.  About the time I finally
> learn all the tricks, it will be good to use on the chariot wheels on the
> streets of gold.  When I was a Shell dealer in the middle 60's, my first
> brake job was a 57 Plymouth.  It took more then two days to get a brake
> pedal even with the help of the parts supplier and the mobil brake drum and
> shoes jobber helping.  End of the second day I left the car on the hoist
> and over-night the air found its way to the m/c and all was good again.
>
>
>
>
> Larry W Jett
>
> 8176 Fairway Ct            Eat, Drink, & Be Larry...
>
> Newark, CA 94560
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> *Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?*
>
>
>
>
> 
>



-- 
*Ray Jones. Y'all come on down an see us. Ya hear?*


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Posted by: Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx>
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