Remember that the temperature gauge runs off of the + 5 VDC voltage regulator/limiter in the gas gauge. If the gas gauge seems somewhat credible, the temp gauge should be, also.
I don’t have an Infrared temperature-indicating gun but I think they are available at reasonable prices and should give a reasonable indication of temperature if observing the skin temperature of the top tank.
The jury is out on the effect of timing on engine heat rejection but the 413’s don’t seem to be particularly efficient converters of fuel to useful work, so the fuel energy that is burnt but not converted to useful work has to go somewhere. Some is lost to air moving around the engine, some goes unburnt out the exhaust, the hot exhaust gases carry much of the heat and the water pump’s job is to get the hot coolant to the radiator. If the radiator cannot reject its assigned heat load, the coolant temperature will start to build up. This will allow for some additional cooling due to the increased difference between cooling air temperature and coolant temperature. So, the water pump plays a significant role. Pulley diameters and pump impeller design and condition are also critical. Truck pumps, and air-conditioned car pumps may differ from the pump on a stripper Newport. For ’64, the same impeller is used in all 361 through 413’s in cars with a/c as well as all hemi’s. 361 thru 413 without a/c have a different impeller. The crank-end drive pulley and water pump/fan drive pulley each have a half-dozen alternatives indicating that Chrysler spent a lot of time determining proper fan/pump speed. Cop cars and taxi’s may spend a lot of time idling (as do my cars On CA freeways/parking lots) so need to pump a lot of water and air at low speeds. Our ’55 did not like idling in traffic or a parade on a hot day. I would hope that part numbers would be visible on pulleys and maybe even somewhere on the outside of a pump. Check them out against the parts manual: http://www.jholst.net/64-parts-manual/cooling.pdf From an engineering standpoint, it is axiomatic that fan blades, fan speed, impeller design and all details of the air and water sides of the radiator are critical and need to be carefully matched. Changing rows on a radiator will change the internal water velocity and change the operating point of the water pump—possibly to the overall deterioration of overall waste heat rejection.
Consideration should be given to supplemental cooling by electric fans. These keep the hemi in my ’05 Durango cool on the hottest day in traffic with a/c working although they really roar when they come on full blast. High velocity air will do that.
Finally, it is best for the temperature sensing bulb of the thermostat to be in the coolant. If for any reason there is only hot air or steam around the bulb, it may not fully open the t-stat. A properly designed and plumbed radiator overflow system will enable purging vapor and maintaining the system full of liquid coolant. On my turbocharged 2.2 T&C convertible, it is a recommended cooling fix to drill a small hole in the thermostat flapper to allow trapped vapor to pass through the hole and allow hot coolant to come up and open the flapper.
BTW, it might be more accurate to call that big black brass or aluminum component a convector, not a radiator—but that’s for another evening.
Rich Barber
Brentwood, CA (100 F today, maybe 105-108 tomorrow)
From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx' mgoodknight@xxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2015 7:20 PM
To: dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx
Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 413 AC radiator cap.
Probably a false indication. Check the temp with a real thermometer.
---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: Chrysler 300 List <chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: [Chrysler300] 64 413 AC radiator cap.
Date: Tue, 30 Jun 2015 00:25:19 +0000 (UTC)
After installing the new 4 core with shroud, 7 blade fan and 160 thermo, the 300 runs hot, close to the upper limit.
Have not driven it yet, only raised the idle to 2k, and the gauge dropped a bit to the left.
The block is a new build with 200 or less miles, clean on the inside.
The cap is a 13 #. No leaks. runs hot.
Any thing look incorrect ?
Thanks,
Dave D.
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