Dave, Had the exact same problem as you and this is what I did to cure the problem. - installed high density (fins per inch) large tube 3 core rad - installed a fan shroud with 7 blade 18 inch fan - verified that clutch on fan worked as designed - used high flow 180 degree thermostat - made sure that timing is correct - initial and total (check distributor advance curves) - make sure carb(s) are not running lean - added a product called "water wetter" to the coolant. Similar products also available - make sure you run 50% water / anti freeze in the cooling system - use molded rad hoses - use the correct pressure cap and test to make sure it functions as designed - check to see that the heat riser valve functions as designed - a valve stuck in the closed position adds a lot of extra heat
My car now can sit in traffic all day and the temp gauge stays in the normal range. Items to note: I was told that installing a 4 core high density rad may adversely affect cooling capabilities. These cars never were designed to have 4 cores. Physically it is possible to install a 4 core rad, but it will be "squished" in the available space. To may rows of copper along with to high a density of fins equals to much air flow restriction. Make sure your temp sensor on the engine function as designed. I assume that your temp gauge was working OK prior to the rebuild. If it was, it should be still in proper working condition. If in doubt, temp, install an aux. aftermarket gauge and compare readings. Not sure if your engine is rebuilt, but if it is, it is possible that your engine rebuild is "tight". A rebuild should run at the designed temp. on first fire up. A "tight" engine will be an ongoing issue - it will not wear in to designed specs.
On 2015-06-29 20:25, Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:
|