Re: [Chrysler300] thermostats

Monkey Wrench time.

FrankenTruck had a radiator problem, about once a year I had to pull it and get a solder bloom repaired.

Even had it overheat once on the highway.

Otherwise didn't seem to have problems with the cooling.

Got tired of pull it out, get it fixed, put it back. I knew someone who was working in the

aftermarket parts industry. He set me up with an all aluminum replacement radiator

for FrankenTruck. No More cooling Problems.

I was motorvated to call up the manufacturer and had to ask about its suitability

based on its construction. Standard configuration, top tank, bottom tank with tranny cooler built in.

FranenTruck also has a fair sized add-on tranny cooler.

The "Catch' it only has 1 (One) row of tubes (the core). While it works I aint a gonna complain.

(the $$ was real reasonable)

With todays grab-it and go anti-freeze, I do have it set so there is no air in the system, a precaution.

The Boilover I experienced convinced me that I wasn't using the Old anti-freeze anymore.

What a load of particulates, it soiled a lot of the under hood stuff that got sprayed. A Nice dirty brown.

Paul Holmgren

2 57 300-C's in Indy
Hoosier Corps #L6
CPUs run on smoke. I know this because when the smoke comes out, it stops working.

On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 10:05 AM, "Anna F Noia sa-noia@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Mark & All

The Thermostat should not open and close but should open enough to maintain a constant set point, say the 180 degrees F that it's designed to do. The capacity of your radiator has a great deal to do with this too however. If your radiator does not have the capacity to meat the heat load of your engine, that extra heat will raise your water temperature accordingly and eventually boil over..... The radiator should always have the capacity required for the "Job" you intend to complete with your engine, say 100MPH till you need to slow down with the State Trooper in your rear view mirror, or say pull your boat trailer at highway speed till you get to the lake. Everything has a heat cost to your engine, the radiator "MUST" be big enough, or you will overheat! I would also suggest, "Oil Coolers" they are always a GOOD thing to have for the Transmission, engine oil, power steering....all serve a significant purpose. Keeping your engine "Cooool" will extend its life significantly..always..no matter what you try do to it. Just a few thoughts.

Best Regards,
Stephen A. Noia
1-408-210-4736 cell

On Monday, June 29, 2015 6:28 PM, "'Mark Lindahl' mplindahl@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Dave,

Rebuilt engines are tight and therefore tend to run hot, especially with your foot on the brake at a stop light. I also expanded my radiator from 2 row. With the old 383, no hot engine. With the newly rebuilt 413 (0.040 over), I am running hot too. I have only driven it about 5000 miles in the last 4 years since it was rebuilt. I do not remember my new thermostat temperature, but it should open way before the temp gauge gets into the upper limit.

Regards,

Mark Lindahl

’63 300 Conv.

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Dave Dumais dave.dumais@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2015 8:05 PM
To: Chrysler 300 List
Subject: [Chrysler300] thermostats

question came up. I am running a 160 thermo with new 4 core set up.

Is there a difference running a 180, will the 180 close and reopen?

Should there be a 195?

And does the 4 core 64 have a 13 # cap?

What about the head gasket, as mentioned by another member?

Will check fluid level after cool down.

thanks,

Dave D.