I also have the four-bolt manifolds, so I have clearances of 1/4" left, 1/4" right, and 1/4" to the hood (measured with a squished baggie of grease). It's crazy close, but it does work out. Keith Boonstra - On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 2:29 PM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > A further complication on air cleaner contact is we put the rare 4 bolt > “truck” exhaust manifolds on this car, which almost forces some jacking up > of drivers side…( how they did it, per reports /recommendations of the day) > ---the manifolds hit the large 57 steering box, and inner part of upper > control arm parts . If anyone else goes this way, some pretty aggressive > grinding of back of suspension parts should be done to get 3/8” or so > there. Looking at it installed , the parts of suspension that interfere do > not look structurally important to me. Your opinion may vary. Some of > these big flange manifolds have flats cast there . I researched that pretty > well at the time, how to get those in a 300C, and no where was the air > cleaner issue at the hood mentioned. I wanted 2.25 exhausts, and if you > look at pretty bad stock 300 “log” exhaust manifolds and tiny exhaust pipes > on converts, a lot of what the hemi is all about is very obviously lost in > the overall 57 exhaust design. We opened the frame cutouts in the X too. > > > > On the carburetors, we ground off that fast idle cam end so throttle > plates are now sitting as closed as they get. However a new and unexpected > complication arose; the front carb idle air screw has no real impact on the > idle; we think the carbs may have been apart at the throttle plates > /shafts, (extremely tight tolerance fit at manufacture to throttle bore) > and although now closed mechanically till they touch, air is still getting > by front carb, more air than is allowed in by the screw , in the first few > turns . So adjusting the screws(air screws) to same turns out per 300C > dual quad set up instruction gets you nowhere. Both idle stop screws on the > linkage are now not touching, (correct) both air screws were initially 4 > turns out to get reasonable idle speed,--but after figuring out front one > is not working right, it was turned in 2 turns , then went for vacuum > readings on 4 mixture screws. The front mixture screws do impact idle > vacuum, so front cab is contributing OK, irrespective of air screw setting > . The factory setup suggests 1 turn out on air screws, it would not idle > there at all. Rear one acts normal. This experience and thoughts about it > might help someone else… > > > > Someone mentioned using a carb air flow balancer /unisyn on this . This > really makes sense to me now… (I did not have one) ---you cannot depend on > counting turns on the air screw to sync carb air flow ..too many mechanical > fit variables in that. > > > > It seems happy now, stable idle and no bang engaging torque flight, no > stalling. Not real happy with what I know now, one carb not closing 100% > right, but it is information. But take away is probably best to NEVER take > off staked screws holding throttle discs on throttle shafts. ..ever …even > if shafts are a little loose. Note that on single quads with throttle > linkage stop screws holding the carb open for idle, all this is no > problem/does not matter.... > > > > On to next problem…. > > > > john > > > > *From:* Keith Boonstra [mailto:kboonstra.zeegroup@xxxxxxxxx] > *Sent:* Friday, November 06, 2015 6:20 PM > *To:* John Grady > *Cc:* chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Chouinard JY > *Subject:* Re: [Chrysler300] C hemi dual quad idle > > > > The drivers side air cleaner on my C also rubbed a groove in the hood pad > that another owner had installed. Maybe that's why Chrysler didn't put a > pad on the '57 hoods out of the factory. > > > > Without the pad there now there's no rub, but it's really close (about > 1/4"); and I know if I ever snap the left side engine mount, I'll have a > pretty big zit on my hood. > > > > Keith Boonstra > > > > On Fri, Nov 6, 2015 at 5:16 PM, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx > [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: > > > > More info after previous post on this issue of setting idle correctly -- > or understanding intent . > It turns out that although both idle screws are obviously there on the 2 > carbs and linkage ... They are NOT to be used to set idle . The factory > supplement image is marked "do not adjust" at each screw . It should say > screw should not touch anything .. Or be removed . > On these setups,only ( and not on WCFB in general ), there are two air > bleed screws for idle air, like the large ones on ram cars , but these look > like large mixture screws. They are on drivers side of each carb, to rear > of secondary throttle shaft .The back one is hidden behind the vacuum > fitting/ neutral switch . A few guys emailed me,suggestions about this > setup , unaware of this idle air screw deal .. as I was too . So setting > idle by front carb idle stop screw is wrong idea . But that screw will > change idle . > Further the carbs have to close 100 % or air will go by throttle plates > like a normal carb at idle . On my car the fast idle cam tang when off the > cam (warm engine ) was hooking under the cam end ---holding the carb from > closing 100 % . I am going to add clearance there by bending or grinding > end of cam disc . Then carb will close 100 % . Then air is set by bypass > air screw . There is no fast idle adjustment except bending that same tab, > which would hold carb open resting on cam until choke pulls off . Supposed > to be about 1350 rpm. Once all this is working , balancing 2 air screws and > 4 mixture screws ( count turns to start ) ought to have it idling as > designed . It uses both carbs at idle . They suggest one turn open on 4 > mixture screws to start . The 300 supplement explains all this , but to me > anyway , is not specific about the idle screws . I have learned something > here.. Want to share it . The idle screws are not idle screws . A new issue > , my air cleaners are rubbing on underhood pad . That is close !! > More later , ! Progress!! > John > Sent from my iPhone > > > > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Posted by: Keith Boonstra <kboonstra.zeegroup@xxxxxxxxx> ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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