It was so long ago, Mike, not sure about pin , for sure no rivet, my experience 1960 only. but if you understand the thing functionally, I do not see why you need pin. It apparently wears loose on roll pin rapidly over time, “nails” may turn differentially on the roll pin with axles when going around a corner. Roll pin is NO bearing!! may have been simply a common sense assembly aid at factory; kept the thrust pins or nails secure in the pumpkin assembly till axles are in . I can see no functional reason for it ,as engineer, in differential .. But I did fix one by inserting missing nail into the block, held on end of two welding wires welded together end to end , nail held by glue , with a flashlight, without pulling pumpkin. Then second heavier wire holds it while you pull out first. So no roll pin there that time for sure . Worked fine. Could make a nice tool to do this…. This on advice of old local Chrysler mechanic who had done it many times. He also said ok for pins or nails to sit dormant in bottom of pumpkin. I have trouble with that , but he may be right. I think I got them out with magnet on bendable aluminum wire . Memory not clear however. Was one of these pins the root cause of your locking ring gear every so many feet? You would not be the first guy to suck out the pin into the mesh while “playing” with the axle , brakes or wheel bearings ; you pull axle an inch, pin sticks to it and then off course falls off before it is over axle tube . Like garlic and oil on linguini heads for your shirt with impeccable timing. I ask , as I wonder what you were doing, if pin came out? While on this, I added BMW magnetic drain plugs at bottom of some of my car’s pumpkins, when working on them, by drilling and tapping housing ..both to get a drain (some MOPARS do not have drain --only the high checking hole) ,and to get magnet for holding junk. They are on Ebay, metric tap and drill needed. Smaller diameter than American cars . That way you can drain axle and junk at very bottom . Have to be careful to figure out where obviously. And might need rectorseal (plumbing store—good stuff) on it as axle housing not smooth to seal . From: Michael Moore [mailto:mmoore8425@xxxxxxx] Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 2:26 PM To: John Grady Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] Axle spacers in Power-Grip differentials 300H Thanks John-I take it then you use neither the roll pin or the rivet. Mike Moore 300H On Nov 18, 2015, at 11:22 AM, John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote: Just assemble them with heavy grease ..they get loose on pin that is OK , they will not just fall out—unless you do something wrong ; your shims will then adjust correctly at the wheel bearings ; old pack usually ok as is . ; from that part of install you can tell the spacers are in place ok . if one is out of place, even with no shims, the axles will be still loose in the tapered rollers—remember you are pressing right through that block and through the pins when you set up wheel bearings clearance side to side ; if one falls out that whole length is then too short. Obviously, do not contact the spacer nail head with axle end while reassembling and then pull it back out , they might come with it (how they fall out/came out in first place..stuck there to axle end face by the heavy axle oil) the grease will hold if you do not pull them out. You get it! Keep head free of grease too. Why pack is on one side…block , both pins, and other axle all move over together when you set clearance spacing with the pack From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Michael Moore mmoore8425@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 1:32 PM To: Mike Moore Cc: chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Subject: [Chrysler300] Axle spacers in Power-Grip differentials 300H I have been studying the 62 shop manual regarding the axle spacers (look like nail heads) which go into the center block of my Power-Grip differential and which the rear axles bear on). It appears they originally were pushed onto a roll pin. When I removed my third member, both fell into the diff housing, something which got me thinking about hazards of reassembly. I really donlt want to wonder about whether they are in the sump or not, and I don;t want to remove the thrid member again! It looks like there has been a design change, although it seems to be for later models. The updated design uses a long rivet instead of a roll pin, and apparently gets peened over after assembly into the center lock. I am mightily interested in hearing any experiences with this, Thank You, Mike Moore 300H [Non-text portions of this message have been removed] ------------------------------------ Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> ------------------------------------ To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang ------------------------------------ Yahoo Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Chrysler300/join (Yahoo! 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