Re: [Chrysler300] 300C Voltage Regulator, Spark Plug, Trans Shift Cable

Hi just want to throw something in here , FYI, no criticism , ever .

A Personal interest in this stuff as EE . First , all electronic ignitions drop about a volt on the semiconductor switch .= 1/12 less energy , although energy technically goes as square of volts in a load ( joules or watt seconds) ( why 16v racing batteries in drag racing) ; so a significant real loss is there --compared to points . Not killer but real and 8% (+ ) less maximum Bang -- Than points. Points drop zero volts . More complex issue than this , due to time constants and dwell time but anyway . .. ... points are a perfect switch, but have maintenance and dwell issues . But are perfect for 10 k miles , dwell no issue till 4000 plus rpm and they will not stop you dead on a back road with an electronic failure . AKA , "the MSD long walk syndrome". I like points. **

Second , just like welding amps ( the spark milliamperes in arc ) determines energy or heat of spark ( or weld) once lit . And it "burns" once lit , at under 20kv --way under . So for a given fixed amount of watts, ( mJ) which is volts times amps , raising volts in coil always cuts current .= flimsy burning spark . Everything over 20 kv is just light off headroom , to initially strike spark, just like the open circuit volts in welding before you weld. . So a Hv coil is also a lower milliamperes coil. But current is how "fat" and hot it is , once lit , .what you want. It burns for about 1/1000 sec. Very smart EE's optimized that trade from 1910 to 70's , over 60 years, they are way better skilled to do it than aftermarket guy with " high voltage coil. " and a sales pitch. . Gap enters that , as strike voltage goes up with big gap , but agree 100 % that small sharp clean rhodium or iridium tip lights better , can open gap a bit. NGK knows iridium gap . Follow them. Stock coil as optimized by factory skill , with enough dwell, is fine. About 85 to one ratio is sweet spot . About 40 kv . GM and Chrysler might know about all this?

Last , Chrysler addressed dwell on hi po engines with a second point set that closes very fast after first one opens ( many do not understand that , the why) , it helps keep fat spark to a higher rpm by raising the dwell time points are closed , to fill up the coil energy store. Filling it takes time.

% more dwell = % more high rpm.

Directly related.

Critical to setup those right , but they really work . Flat out 10% or more better than any single point in rpm. ( take that Chebbie guys) Went 220 mph in NASCAR , land speed records, all the 60's Nhra. All our 300 records set on points .

I observed a dyno run on a built 354 hemi , MSD , 385 hp to 6500. MSD died on the dyno ( right) , guy had "old 300B " distributor in his trunk, threw in, to finish dyno , carb test etc,

It ran clean to 6600 plus, same HP . So a lot of what we are sold aftermarket is BS . MSD = multiple spark discharge . A late , incorrectly timed second spark is useless guys, except at idle with fouled plugs. Idle is not the problem . Save 400$. Paint something else red.

But NGk iridium plugs are terrific, only way to go .

Last , GM hei 4 pin switch module is a terrific thing, way better than mopar boxes, which simply replace points with a transistor .. and drop a volt, and even delay spark a bit. Which can retard spark a bit at very high rpm. HEI controls coil current --limits it actively --to a value about 15% more than ballast R does. why no ballast resistor is ok on HEI ; it has a dedicated complex custom chip , really well done. . I got way into this, I know what's inside both . I was working on a dwell extender for points , and adapting points to HEI, to gain hi rpm hot spark, ( for Point mopar!) our distributors are great , --tach drive etc just need more dwell . you cannot do that HEI adaption with simple wiring and resistors, ( despite internet wisdom) it will not hold timing .

Best coil I found is Delphi GM truck E core HEI mid 90's . Not in the cap . You can use with our points stuff or mopar box , and ballast resistor , you need their pink and white plug pig tail , pink is + . At Rock . Stock mopar coil is almost as good .

Just sayin ... FYI ..

all this other stuff can work , no issue. we are all after real Understanding .. hope this helps with that ..

John

** capacitor critical to points , lots of Chinese junk in new parts . If embossed X in can at end opposite a black wire wire it is junk . Weak spark on points almost always a junk capacitor ,and really frustrating , it is intermittent inside. Comes and goes. Hard starts poor running that fixes itself. Leave the old one if tests ok by analog ohmmeter

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 18, 2017, at 5:52 PM, Ray Melton rfmelton@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello Jim - Did you ever get a good source for the fuel hose between the carbs? If not, I think I have an appropriate spare left over from restoring my late father's 300C. What is really important is the end fittings; the low-pressure rubber fuel hose can be fabricated by any good shop that makes hydraulic or air conditioner lines. (That's what I did, using a section of stainless-braided fuel hose from Pep Boys ($8) because the original line in 1957 was covered in a copper braid, which is not available anywhere anymore. Local shop charged me $10 to swage the ends onto the brass fittings. Just be sure you like the appearance of what they're going to use for those swaged ends!)

Regarding the spark plugs, I used new technology NGK BPR5EIX-11 Iridium plugs (yes, all those letters and numbers mean a specific thing! For example, the suffix -11 means that the electrode gap is 1.1 mm - 0.044" - which yields a bigger spark than the typical 0.030" used on old nickel-tip electrodes.)) - they're even better than platinum and are used in many modern cars that are expected to go 100,000 miles on a set of plugs. Yes, I know that a large part of that longevity is the more precise fuel injection on modern cars which virtually eliminates rich fouling, but the 0.4 mm dia (0.016 inch) fine-wire Iridium center electrode is very resistant to fouling by either rich mixture or oil, so they're perfectly suited for our old Brutes.

BTW, with a modern Pertronix conversion for the miserable old dual points, a Pertronix 45KV coil disguised as original, the NGK Iridium plugs and a homemade set of original-looking 7mm plug wires with spiral-wound stainless steel conductor for minimal resistance but excellent RFI suppression for good radio reception, the motor now starts within less than a second!

Ray Melton Las Cruces, NM 1957 Chrysler 300C cvt White/Gauguin s/n 3N572517

On 10/18/2017 2:35 PM, paul paulholm@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] wrote:

On 10/18/2017 4:14 PM, JIM KRAUSMANN Kraus300@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
wrote:

> Thanks for responses on the carb to carb fuel hose question.

> Separately, it has been more than 10 years and many miles since the
> spark plugs were changed. I think it has Champion RN12YC now. It runs
> fine. It probably won't after I change the plugs. Any brand or part #
> preference?

> Thanks!

> Jim Krausmann

last time I researched the sparkies for the 392 the autolight agr32 and
agr42 were still listed in some parts house cattylogs, I believe these
were factory original plugs.

--
Paul Holmgren
The history of liberty is a history of resistance.
The history of liberty is a history of limitations
of governmental power, not the increase of it.
- Woodrow Wilson, New York, September 9, 1912

Re: [Chrysler300] 300C Voltage Regulator, Spark Plug, Trans Shift Cable Questions