RE: [Chrysler300] 64 tilt wheel
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RE: [Chrysler300] 64 tilt wheel





Just sayin too,

 

I have repaired the Parking brake cables and speedo housings by something I came up with….worked well, might help here--- especially if the sheath outside length is critical, or needs a length tweeek ..although I know nothing specific on the column issues. But fought GM Corvair Corsa once, about 6 long Bowdon cables go from dash to engine area. (heater etc ); first time I did this.. Soldered electric crimp terminal to end of broken off stubs, replacement for the Bowdon loop. Better than new.

 

Back to sheath, I took a short length of copper tubing that was a good but slip fit on metal spiral OD  (like refrigeration line material, comes in many  sizes) ; lay out the Bowdon line/ park cable  flat on bench align  broken ends of sheath correctly , maybe even hold with staples to surface, so no turning or slipping . On one , I had to slice the copper lengthwise with fine hack saw, in vise, pry open  (big ends were fixed on the inner pull wire, cannot slide it on over end )  ,I  fit the copper over the problem area , then mix up JB weld , thin coat outer parts of sheath , (might use narrow band , like ¼” of scotch or vinyl electrical tape to keep it out of the center cable split/hole  ) then squeeze  the copper closed with large or vise grip pliers , or if crude , big stuff,  hammer it lightly on a vise anvil, till even and tight. ;. I worked wire back and forth occasionally while hardening to be sure not stuck ; once hard, (next day) I added shrink tube,  run to end,  looks like new with a bump . I then oil it hanging vertically, with 75/90 Mobil 1 gear oil . Problems often caused by no lube.

 

The very first one,  a fully broken  TF parking brake cable sheath on a 57, I tried to solder it to the copper, , but oil in sheath defeated that,  made a big mess. JB worked fine . Whatever works. Solder has an advantage if clean , shiny , small sheath , done in a minute , JB is steel powder filled,  strong, I am not sure epoxy would cut it, but it might, on smaller things than park cable. . And have to take into account highly flexed area or not. Worked for me……!

 

Similar way to repair 300F hood pull, (always breaks at tee end—at the worst possible time ) ; cut old crimp right off, drill a good fit on wire hole about 3/8 ” into end, shine the wire carefully with knife , and flux/ solder. No more breaking due to a notch in wire ---caused by the factory T handle crimp

 

John

 

Yeah, ---I like copper…goes back to BC

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, April 01, 2019 4:06 PM
To: 'Larry Jett'; 'Bob Merritt'
Cc: 'Chrysler 300 List'
Subject: RE: [Chrysler300] 64 tilt wheel

 




Yes, I am out there.  Bob and I have communicated extensively on this. 

 

Even after relocating the switch base on our ‘64K column to accommodate the new and longer cable, Operation is a little iffy.  Finding that sweet spot to keep the sheath in tension is challenging.  Life under the dash is less interesting every day. 

 

I see that Bob found his problem to be a broken sheath at the upper end.  I believe that tilt column continued for several years—maybe even into the ‘70’s Chrysler so a reproduction or modification of an existing GM reproduction would seem to be a viable project—along with great instructions on how to replace and adjust.

 

Just sayin’

 

Rich Barber

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Monday, April 1, 2019 9:44 AM
To: Bob Merritt <bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: Chrysler 300 List <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: [Chrysler300] 64 tilt wheel

 

 

RE:  GM supplied tilt-wheel for 1964 Mopars.  Indeed, Rich Barber and myself wrestled both intellectually and physically with that weird setup.  I even hand made a pulling device to free some part of the upper structure in order to reach the insides.  The turn signals bulbs are switched via a boudin cable that has been reproduced by some GM.  Rich, are you out there on this? Did you ever get it to work?

 

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 5:41 AM 'Bob Merritt' bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

I am interested to hear from anyone that has

worked on the tilt steering wheel that came out in 1964.

 

You know.......stuff such as 

 

Did you have turn signal problems?

Did you disassemble the steering column head?

How did you fix it?

 

Given the lack of information in the service manuals on this,

I'm assembling as much as I can to make up

a fix&repair guide.

 

Thanks

Hiho

Bob

 






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Posted by: "John Grady" <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>


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