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John: More great solutions from Mr. Fixit. Thanks for these and all the others you have contributed over the years. Rich Barber From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'John Grady' jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Just sayin too, I have repaired the Parking brake cables and speedo housings by something I came up with….worked well, might help here--- especially if the sheath outside length is critical, or needs a length tweeek ..although I know nothing specific on the column issues. But fought GM Corvair Corsa once, about 6 long Bowdon cables go from dash to engine area. (heater etc ); first time I did this. Soldered electric crimp terminal to end of broken off stubs, replacement for the Bowdon loop. Better than new. Back to sheath, I took a short length of copper tubing that was a good but slip fit on metal spiral OD (like refrigeration line material, comes in many sizes) ; lay out the Bowdon line/ park cable flat on bench align broken ends of sheath correctly , maybe even hold with staples to surface, so no turning or slipping . On one , I had to slice the copper lengthwise with fine hack saw, in vise, pry open (big ends were fixed on the inner pull wire, cannot slide it on over end ) ,I fit the copper over the problem area , then mix up JB weld , thin coat outer parts of sheath , (might use narrow band , like ¼” of scotch or vinyl electrical tape to keep it out of the center cable split/hole ) then squeeze the copper closed with large or vise grip pliers , or if crude , big stuff, hammer it lightly on a vise anvil, till even and tight. ;. I worked wire back and forth occasionally while hardening to be sure not stuck ; once hard, (next day) I added shrink tube, run to end, looks like new with a bump . I then oil it hanging vertically, with 75/90 Mobil 1 gear oil . Problems often caused by no lube. The very first one, a fully broken TF parking brake cable sheath on a 57, I tried to solder it to the copper, , but oil in sheath defeated that, made a big mess. JB worked fine . Whatever works. Solder has an advantage if clean , shiny , small sheath , done in a minute , JB is steel powder filled, strong, I am not sure epoxy would cut it, but it might, on smaller things than park cable. . And have to take into account highly flexed area or not. Worked for me……! Similar way to repair 300F hood pull, (always breaks at tee end—at the worst possible time ) ; cut old crimp right off, drill a good fit on wire hole about 3/8 ” into end, shine the wire carefully with knife , and flux/ solder. No more breaking due to a notch in wire ---caused by the factory T handle crimp John Yeah, ---I like copper…goes back to BC From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] Yes, I am out there. Bob and I have communicated extensively on this. Even after relocating the switch base on our ‘64K column to accommodate the new and longer cable, Operation is a little iffy. Finding that sweet spot to keep the sheath in tension is challenging. Life under the dash is less interesting every day. I see that Bob found his problem to be a broken sheath at the upper end. I believe that tilt column continued for several years—maybe even into the ‘70’s Chrysler so a reproduction or modification of an existing GM reproduction would seem to be a viable project—along with great instructions on how to replace and adjust. Just sayin’ Rich Barber From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of Larry Jett LarryWJett@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] RE: GM supplied tilt-wheel for 1964 Mopars. Indeed, Rich Barber and myself wrestled both intellectually and physically with that weird setup. I even hand made a pulling device to free some part of the upper structure in order to reach the insides. The turn signals bulbs are switched via a boudin cable that has been reproduced by some GM. Rich, are you out there on this? Did you ever get it to work? On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 5:41 AM 'Bob Merritt' bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
__._,_.___ Posted by: "Rich Barber" <c300@xxxxxxx> To send a message to this group, send an email to: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to bob@xxxxxxxxxxxxx or go to https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/all/manage/edit For list server instructions, go to http://www.chrysler300club.com/yahoolist/inst.htm For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang __,_._,___ |
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