Re: [Chrysler300] 1960 "F" Generator

["Noel Hastalis cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hello Mike,

The few times I've seen your F at the Hickory Corners 'Mopars at the Red Barns' shows, I saw that yours is an A/C car, so you it should be running a 40-Amp Autolite GJM-8202A generator. My non-A/C F has a 35-Amp Autolite GJM 8201A generator, that won't run the A/C, if I ever complete the conversion.

I'm going to forward your 'generator' email to one of my local suburban Chicago friends, for his professional opinion. He's been rebuilding generators, starters, and more since the mid-1950s. If he thinks he can rebuild your generator, I'm thinking that's the way to go, unless you want to try the gener-nator alternative that Tony Rinaldi mentioned.

I started having generator meltdowns starting on my drive from Chicago to our Alamogordo Club Meet, in September 2014. Driving south on I-57, my generator died, with my gauge reading dead left. I called Spanky Cox, and rolled into his place. Spanky looked thru his supply of rebuilt generators, but none fit my F. We took my generator to a shop he uses in Effingham, and they rebuilt it in about 2 hours. We bought a new regulator, installed the generator and regulator, and I was on my way, along with John Begian who met up with us there in his G, running down from Michigan. That generator rebuild lasted for about a year, and then the F was again discharging.

I then took the generator, with my 2 regulators, over to my local friend who bench tested the generator and regulators. He confirmed the F's generator needed rebuilding, and also that both regulators were not properly calibrated. He also tested the 3 regulators from my '64 1/2 Mustang convertible (still a generator car!), and confirmed that all 3 of those regulators were significantly miscalibrated. He  properly calibrated all 5 regulators. He rebuilt my generator, including having its armature rewound by someone he knows here locally. We reinstalled the generator and it seemed fine for my short drive up to our Fall '16 Elkhart Lake Meet. At the Meet I was getting a squeaking noise for the generator, and it wasn't fully charging. So, after the Meet, back for another rebuild. He diagnosed that there was a short somewhere in the armature, so another rewind and rebuild. Now, 10,000+ road-tested miles later, the generator has been operating fine. 

To your comment re Fs produced with alternators, I'm pretty sure only the '60 Pont-a-Moussin 4-speed cars had alternators, along with the '60 Valiants, as Dan Reitz stated. Randy Guyer's black F convertible was built on June 7, 1960, and was the final F convertible to roll off Chrysler's assembly line. Randy's F has a generator.

Noel

On August 31, 2019 at 6:34 AM "John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

Hi Mike, 

Pretty much all 12 v non ac generators and VR are the same 30A in mopar 57-60 —should find  one readily - used on line / eBay  . Sometimes nos armatures too . Sometimes “clocking “ of front or back plate is different . Can use your parts .. 

Armature is very reliable in general just brushes go . Change those . Poor brushes, stuck brush springs ( common)  can roughen  copper bars on armature . 

AC generator and VR are rare , more amperes , possibly several versions ,35 and 40 A .

If ever no charge after sitting , first tap rear of generator with a hammer . Away you go 

Some external event had burned it ? Messing with VR or “ jumpers “ are most likely cause . VR had a built in current limiter , gen armature therefore cannot burn out in car in use  . If you push down on the reverse current relay in Vr (the  golden finger) with engine off it will lock in and burn up armature with key off, after you walk away .       Have seen that many times, sadly . Battery current then flows backwards into stopped generator till battery dies. Burns armature winding up . You Can cause same thing messing with jumpers . And jumpers can blow up VR . Do not open VR can, thinking you can adjust etc . All you can do is cause harm , unless you really understand it and even then there is absolutely no reason to think the correct and critical factory adjustments have  changed . Run  from anyone who says it needs adjustment. If defective get a new one . (2  resistors in back of it rust at their clamped ends sometimes, lose connection ) To close that out, it is not just contact gap and spring tension that matter it is the air gap to the pole pieces too . All interact . Bending anything destroys all that . None of the above — even told to smart people — prevents the golden screwdriver of the left side of bell curve from burning generator and wrecking the precision of the Vr, sadly . Think of it as a sealed watch. Cover should have been riveted on . 
4 speed F had alternator , prototype , I think . Due to special headers. . But not used in production to my knowledge . G parts would fit ,—  I believe exhaust manifold changes F to G . G alternator exhaust manifold therefore a rare bird? F is rare , would keep all stock ... 

j

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 31 Aug 2019, at 6:54 am, Michael Reed rmreed@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

The generator/alternator shop says the armature on my F's generator is shot - shorted out. Unrepairable. Do any of you have a source for a generator, or a generator for sale?

Second question: the shop says F's manufactured late in the prouction year had alternators installed. I've never heard that - any truth to it?

Mike
Women with a little extra weight tend to live longer than men who mention it.

On Aug 29, 2019, "rob bohuslav sonoramic413@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

https://itstillruns.com/test-fan-clutch-5086903.html

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 4:20 PM rob bohuslav < sonoramic413@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Viscous fans only limit how fast the fan spins in relation to engine RPM...... There are Thermostatically controlled viscous fans which also "lock up" or "tighten up" the drive of the fan related to temp. If the fan clutch has a spring in the center of it, its a thermostatically controlled fan. If not, its only a viscous fan. If a fan clutch goes bad, typically it will appear to be real loose, and may even appear to not spin in relation to the engine, if at all, at idle.. If the fan "freewheels" and has very little if any resistance (engine off of course)...... the clutch is probably bad.

On Thu, Aug 29, 2019 at 2:10 PM williamgrogan2002@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] < Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

 

Do I understand correctly that once the engine is hot the fan should become more difficult to spin as the fluid inside the clutch becomes more viscous?  Seems like mine stays rather easy to spin when stone cold or after running for some time.  Asking because the car seems to run warmer than it used to (not hot, just warmer).

Bill

Just east of the Gateway Arch.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Posted by: Noel Hastalis <cpaviper@xxxxxxxxxxx>

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