Re: [Chrysler300] 1962 413 shutting down

["Jim McDonnell jimmac2004@xxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]" <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

I put a higher spacer block under the carb to solve my vapor lock issue, similar to your issue. Also look to see if fuel line is near a heat source.  I insulated that line also.

On Saturday, December 21, 2019, 08:40:47 AM EST, John Grady jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

 

If it does that consistently , agree with Rich , voltmeter or dwell meter on points to ground will show something changed if electrical on 12 v side . Should fluctuate there with cranking after stall . Reading not important , fluctuation is . Modern “new” capacitors  are often junk .  Can open internally intermittently — that causes weak spark but volts will  look ok. Distributor wiring grounding or dressed wrong or insulation gone lets it touch housing with vacuum advance motion , but that will not generally cause dead stop unless dead short .   Fluctuation will cease. Shorted capacitor too . Intermittent coil short if volts vary but no spark ? Those in line spark testers that light up are  are cheap and a great way to see if spark is ok with intermittent stuff . Will run with it in place . With recent work , “all new” distributor area is number one suspect .  

More probable , if it was ok for a while after all new clogged gas tank filter or cap on gas tank or gas tank vent clogged . It will run till it cannot pull the gas out . Not sure how vent is done in 62 but had that twice in 57, cap vent was clogged due to wrong cap .   Can put in temporary fuel pump pressure gauge at carbs watch it . Clogged vent end too if pipe ( undercoating , dirt etc) 

? Bad gas or water in tank ? Air leak in line from tank especially at rubber jumper  at fuel gauge pickup ? Or at fuel pump hose ? Fuel pump obviously or rod that pushes it can wear out . New pump no good ? 

Usually fuel supply issues show first as inability to keep going 60 mph etc ? Any of  that  happen before this ? Are heat riser valves ok ? Can overheat carb if  stuck?      

Let us know ! 

John g 
Ps how long it runs and consistency are big  clues  

Sent from my iPhone not by choice 

On 20 Dec 2019, at 5:04 pm, 'Rich Barber' c300@xxxxxxx [Chrysler300] <Chrysler300-noreply@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Check voltage at the coil with the key still on after it dies to make sure the ballast resistor is not failing when heated.  Check inside the distributor for loose connections that can and do cause intermittent failure.  Coil-to-distributor wire can fail due to broken copper inside the insulation due to a bend or a loose terminal crimp. 

 

Plenty of air, so must be fire or fuel.  Stuck float preventing filling of carb bowl?  I have heard of blockage of rubber portions of fuel line due to internal swelling.

 

Good luck.  Let us know what you find.

 

Rich Barber

Brentwood, CA

 

From: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> On Behalf Of 'Jerry Lindsay' jerrylindsay300h@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [Chrysler300]
Sent: Thursday, December 19, 2019 9:43 PM
To: Chrysler300@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [Chrysler300] 1962 413 shutting down

 

 

Gentlemen, I have a 1962 Chrysler 300 Sport Coupe with a 413, 4-barrel with excellent compression, new fuel pump, plugs, points, wires, fuel filter, ballast resister, that starts up runs good for several minutes and then shuts off.

 

Any thoughts on this?

 

Jerry Lindsay Seminole, FL 33772

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Posted by: Jim McDonnell <jimmac2004@xxxxxxxxx>

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