The reason I mentioned the DVM test and possible bad diodes was that I suspected a low output based on his report that the car would stall at idle. A nearly dead battery and a low output alternator will cause both. A good DVM will show a relatively stable voltage reading even with a mechanical regulator unless the regulator has burned out resistors or worn out points. I agree that the solid state replacements (USA sourced) are a good move, you can use your old, original regulator cover with the Forward Look logo if you are lucky to still have one. A healthy battery near full charge, connected to an operating alternator running at high idle will show between 13.8 and 14.2 volts across the battery. This measurement is dependent upon the state of the battery, the ambient temperature, the load on the electrical system and the alternator RPM. When charging system problems arise it is always best to follow the simple shop manual diagnostics. Almost always, as John wrote, charging system failure is worn alternator brushes or a bad regulator. However it is best to come to this conclusion via diagnosis rather than parts swapping. Dan From: John Grady [mailto:jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] hi all , diodes failing will cause low output on maximum amps — not flickering , and as discussed before — you cannot see flicker on a DMM , but can on analog . V change shakes or moves the needle . Same as lights . But as Dan said DMM is excellent for exact charge state but numbers jump around with mechanical regulator . It IS totally normal that lights flicker and ammeter jumps a bit on all alternator cars with mechanical regulators , all mopars did this right up to 70 or so . The reason is those regulators are not continuous smooth proportional controls like electronic ones . They have three states , full on , about half on and minimum . Set by the resistors on the back ( if rusted at ends , = the problem ) So it runs full on just after a start and then points open and close rapidly if charge rate needed is between two of the three states ; it charges hard , so volts go up it sees that up voltage reduces charge rate so volts go down . Ammeter shows this too . The flicker . Normal . After a while in daylight it drops to lowest setting = highest voltage = battery full ( may take hours after long storage , 90 AH battery takes 3 hours at 30 A ) , so understandably you think something wrong . It is normal . This comes up over and over in club . Way it works. Still fools me , I drove to bar harbor maine from Boston after sitting , I thought overcharging in daylight , it stopped about 20 miles from end 4 hour trip . Fine from then on , minor jumping around . You can buy a high end good new one at rockauto for low $ . Forget electronic retrofits come from China , unreliable . On alternators what does go wrong ( other than bearings seizing) are the brushes wear out . easy to change buy them at rock too . You may get two , one of them will fit your one brush . Sent from my iPhone not by choice
Joe- First thing I would do is substitute a known good, fully charged battery. Then put a DVM (digital volt ohm meter) set to DC volts across the battery while the engine runs at high idle. You ought to see between 13.8 and 14.2 volts. If you see anything less you want to follow the shop manual procedure for full fielding the alternator. That will drive the alternator to full output and this test will demonstrate whether the alternator or the regulator is at fault. Follow the instructions which ate easy to do. Often flickering lights and poor or no output from the alternator are indicative of one or more failed diodes. The shop manual procedure will get you a quick answer. Dan Sent from my Verizon, Samsung Galaxy smartphone -------- Original message -------- From: 'Joe Luciano' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Date: 10/31/21 8:07 PM (GMT-05:00) Subject: {Chrysler 300} lights flickering HI GANG.any idea's? lights flickering, wants to stall at idle. 62 sport.Joe Luciano Howard beach ny. -- -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/012001d7cf25%24e3880200%24aa980600%24%40northeastretail.com. |
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