RE: {Chrysler 300} Bleeding 300C brakes

Looking at the prices put me off (scam alert). I use this vacuum pump if my wife is not around to pump the brakes (or if I want to avoid an argument). https://www.catch.com.au/product/5-pcs-2-in-1-hand-held-vacuum-tester-pump-brake-bleeder-test-tuner-kit-6041961/?offer_id=29915085&ref=gmc&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI_ITarNvc9wIVjAkrCh1xoQt_EAQYAyABEgIMDfD_BwE

Works like a charm drawing the fluid through. Most of the time you spend working on your brakes will be flushing out old brake fluid, not filling empty lines. This tool is also very good of this job and the level of fluid in the plastic bottle can be used as a guide as to when to stop before running the master cylinder dry. Reverse flushing dirty brake fluid sounds like a good way of filling the master cylinder with crud. I have also used it for testing vacuum canisters and distributor vacuum advance calibration.

I have followed typical manufacturer’s recommendations for flushing brake fluid every two years or so to prevent corrosion – so I have done this a few times. Its not a fun job, but its not hard it you can still crawl under your car and shouldn’t take more than an hour.

I just had to rebuild my wife’s Mustang front callipers with new pistons and seals because of the previous owner’s neglect. Spent $250 just in parts that would have been avoided with regular flushes that usually cost me $20 in fluid.

Just my opinion and experience. Cheers

Henry

From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of RON WATERS
Sent: Saturday, 14 May 2022 12:41 AM
To: 300 Club
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} Bleeding 300C brakes— adding fluid

Nope. Gravity bleed is the way to go. So simple. One person job. I had all four brakes done in an hour. Why complicate the process ? I always go with the simplest solution.

If I were working on Ray's 300C, the first thing I would do is lock the shoes to the drums so that the wheels could not move. Car, of course, is on jack stands with the wheels off the ground. Then I would step on the brakes. There should be zero pedal movement. If there is any movement, that signals that there is either an air leak or a bad master. This is a good place to start.

Ron

On 05/13/2022 9:53 AM Dan Plotkin <dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Further to this discussion I noodled around and found this:
https://www.brakebleeder.com/solutions/bleeding-brakes/bleeding-methods/#:~:text=Reverse%20bleeding%20is%20the%20absolute,fastest%20of%20any%20bleeding%20method.

This describes reverse pressure bleeding, pushing the air from the wheels UP to the master along the lines of John’s thinking. What do you all think about this?

Danny Plotkin

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