First thanks for everyone’s suggestions and input. I have had a very hectic last few weeks and just have not been able to get back on top of this. This morning I washed the car again to prepare to redo it. Up to this point my general feeling was that I should of just dried the car and prevented all this. When I washed it this afternoon I realized the spots did not occur on the trunk at all. I had not done any polishing, was nothing on the trunk because it has some issues that have to be addressed soon. Now I feel the product I used contributed largely to the problem. I feel now what I want to do is get some other product, probably McGuire’s. But there are a million options and there does not seem to be anywhere that has the professional line in stock. If anyone has any suggestions where and or what exactly to get I would appreciate it. Also a few people referred to orange, white, yellow pads. Are these 3m pads? Where are you getting those? I was hoping to buy these things somewhere today and do this but its looking like I am out of luck for the local car show tomorrow at this point. From: chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of Ron Waters Last fall, I taught myself how to professionally buff paint. The 20-year-old paint on one of my show cars was not looking as shiny as I remember it. I started out by watching Chemical Guys videos on YouTube and on their website. Once I got a feel for how to professionally polish paint, it was off to the races. I bought a Torx 10FX D/A buffer, which they recommended for beginners. It was lightweight: 5.5 pounds. The process is as follows: Start out by claying the entire car. This is used for 'exfoliating' the paint.Then I moved on to using Meguiars 105 on the Orange pad. Once I was happy with the results, it was on to Meguiars 205 with the White pad. Finally, I sealed the paint with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. Note: This is a simplified version of what is involved. To practice, I found a 58 Plymouth fender in my garage that was painted black probably in the late 60s. The paint was chalky and had no shine left. I have no idea, but assume it was painted with cheap enamel. Following the process I outlined above, I buffed the fender to a beautiful shine. I just did a section so I could compare the 'before' and 'after'. Now that I had some flight time under my belt, I went to work on my collector car. It came out gorgeous. I had no problems with rain spotting after driving through torrential rain a few weeks ago. I recommend folks learn this process. The results are far superior to what you can achieve using the commerical waxes available at most auto parts stores. Ron -----Original Message----- From: "'Drew Carl' via Chrysler 300 Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Leading up to Iola I spent 3 days and put about 12 coats of orbital buffing and then waxing on my Uncles 62. A few weeks ago I went to a local show and a rain storm came in quick for about 20 minutes and then immediately after the sun was blaring again. Thinking I was smart I took a walk and waited 45 minutes for the roads to dry back up and then went home. With all the waxing I had figured I was in great shape. When I got home I found the entire car had terrible water spots. It gave it a wash hoping they would come off but I don’t think it helped at all. Does anyone have any advice other than re polishing this out? My final coat of was was F11 and I am now concerned that was a mistake. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/0a0d01d8c45d%242bfaf7e0%2483f0e7a0%24%40escoremx.com. |
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