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Drew -
I will caution you that using the professional stuff requires an
understanding of the process that I outlined below. There is actually more to
it, which involves using the correct chemicals for cleaning the surfaces
and pads with what they call 'iso' (a mixture of isopropyl alcohol and
water), as well as using a sealer to ensure that the shine will last for a year
or more. This isn't a Turtle Wax thing where you just rub it in, wait for it to
dry, then polish it off. Trying to use it in that manner will yield
unsatisfactory results. Also, it is important to practice on an old fender to
get the hang of properly using a DA on a painted surface. The multiple steps
involved, as well as the time required to do each step, will result in the task
taking more than one day to complete the entire process.
Ron From: Drew Carl [mailto:drew@xxxxxxxxxxxx] Sent: Friday, September 09, 2022 11:02 AM To: 'Ron Waters'; 'Chrysler 300 Club International' Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300 leopord First
thanks for everyone’s suggestions and input. I have had a very hectic last few
weeks and just have not been able to get back on top of this. This morning I
washed the car again to prepare to redo it. Up to this point my general feeling
was that I should of just dried the car and prevented all this. When I washed it
this afternoon I realized the spots did not occur on the trunk at all. I had not
done any polishing, was nothing on the trunk because it has some issues that
have to be addressed soon. Now I feel the product I used contributed largely to
the problem. I feel now what I want to do is get some other product, probably
McGuire’s. But there are a million options and there does not seem to be
anywhere that has the professional line in stock. If anyone has any suggestions
where and or what exactly to get I would appreciate it. Also a few people
referred to orange, white, yellow pads. Are these 3m pads? Where are you getting
those? I was hoping to buy these things somewhere today and do this but its
looking like I am out of luck for the local car show tomorrow at this
point. From:
chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
[mailto:chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Ron Waters Last fall, I taught
myself how to professionally buff paint. The 20-year-old paint on one of my
show cars was not looking as shiny as I remember it. I started
out by watching Chemical Guys videos on YouTube and on their website. Once
I got a feel for how to professionally polish paint, it was off to the races. I
bought a Torx 10FX D/A buffer, which they recommended for beginners. It was
lightweight: 5.5 pounds. The process is as
follows: Start out by claying the entire car. This is used for 'exfoliating' the
paint.Then I moved on to using Meguiars 105 on the Orange pad. Once I was
happy with the results, it was on to Meguiars 205 with the White pad. Finally, I
sealed the paint with Chemical Guys Jet Seal. Note: This is a simplified version
of what is involved. To practice, I found a 58
Plymouth fender in my garage that was painted black probably in the late
60s. The paint was chalky and had no shine left. I have no idea, but assume it
was painted with cheap enamel. Following the process I outlined above, I buffed
the fender to a beautiful shine. I just did a section so I could compare the
'before' and 'after'. Now that I had some
flight time under my belt, I went to work on my collector car. It came out
gorgeous. I had no problems with rain spotting after driving through torrential
rain a few weeks ago. I recommend folks learn this process. The results
are far superior to what you can achieve using the commerical waxes available at
most auto parts stores. Ron -----Original
Message----- From: "'Drew Carl' via Chrysler 300
Club International"
<chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Leading
up to Iola I spent 3 days and put about 12 coats of orbital buffing and then
waxing on my Uncles 62. A few weeks ago I went to a local show and a rain storm
came in quick for about 20 minutes and then immediately after the sun was
blaring again. Thinking I was smart I took a walk and waited 45 minutes for the
roads to dry back up and then went home. With all the waxing I had figured I was
in great shape. When I got home I found the entire car had terrible water spots.
It gave it a wash hoping they would come off but I don’t think it helped at all.
Does anyone have any advice other than re polishing this out? My final coat of
was was F11 and I am now concerned that was a mistake. -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion on the web visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/5383AEB01F2C468ABB37C89EC355C75E%40ThinkPadL520. |
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