Re: {Chrysler 300} Clocks

Another thing commonly happens , I think I wrote up and Bob put in tech section

When points close , the wind action is fairly violent , the thud you hear .

Magnet throws the arm back about an half inch .stretching drive spring till next thud

Over time the stop for that arm bends wears etc and arm throws one day and overshoots the stop and sticks back there . Easy to fix make a new strong positive stop . How far it throws does not matter . A 20 volt transorb across the points would help with arc stoppage too

I have done quartz conversions myself — you need smallest mechanism that clock outfit in Arizona sells ( good catalog by the way ) only 8$ ,need long nose on it. but setting stem is in the back , I extend with toothpick in drilled hole and shrink sleeve. Epoxy to the set wheel

For battery — wind bare stranded wires around clip 3-4 x and extend to D cell in holder under dash , lasts 5 years , you can’t solder to stainless .

At first with EE hat on I made a 1.5 v power supply off the 12 V works great but every time you disconnect battery you have to reset clock from behind . That gets old ..

I doubt any conversion can keep the electroluminescent hands ??? , that is really complex stuff . I tried .. you can modify hole with drill ( not easy , they crush) keep the hands paint orange / red . I m ok with it — tells time . Looks ok . Background plate stays EL

On the other hand after finding out about “arm is stuck “ issue I probably would keep stock just to keep the lit up hands . Also radio conversions ( I did a really nice one into stock F nose ) generally display a clock .

I also tried dimmed Led lighting in clock for hands sort of worked , , put in back and painted inside of box white , tried one led at former wind stem place too .

Back to rams 413,etc

John

Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 15, 2023, at 5:08 PM, Ray Jones <1970hurst@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Don't want to bore y'all, but, here's how it works. Some of these steps are easy to miss.
Basically it's a mechanical clock. Just needs to be wound up every 2 minutes.The electrical part is a solenoid which pulls the winder up to rewind it. After rewinding, the mechanical part takes over, it's like a ladder and the clock winds down, and the points close and the solenoid pulls it back up to start over. So, in testing, try pulling the winder up and see if it starts tick-tocking down. Make sure the second hand is working.
If it does, take your test wires and attach the ground (make sure of polarity) and then touch the other test lead to the solenoid side of the points. If it sucks the winder up, then clean, file and adjust the points. Then touch it to the contact for the open side of the points, watch it wind down and see if it energises the solenoid when the points close.
So, 3 points of failure. Also make sure the points are getting power from the connection point of the back of the case, and the solenoid is grounded to the case.

Hope this helps, Ray

On Sun, Jan 15, 2023 at 4:08 PM 'James Douglas' via Chrysler 300 Club International <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hi All,

My clock is dead. I cleaned it and checked the points, and it is still dead. What is the consensus if there is one…send out to be rebuilt stock or convert to quartz? Remember this is to be a daily driver.

Has anyone had a particular vendor they used and were happy with?

Thanks, James

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