Hi , any ground in the points circuit from coil (- ) terminal on, such as that stud not being centered will of course prevent circuit opening and thus no spark . Or bare wires touching distributor body inside. Never tape them , that jams vacuum advance . Get a sleeve or new wire If you put a card in the points to hold open , you should see 12 V on that stud .That tells you primary circuit is ok . check right at moving point arm too as that often black “flex wire” can break inside
The Chrysler start circuit can be very confusing as the 12 v “ignition” terminal at ballast ( blue ) goes away during
crank , (!) normal (!) and power is then applied to the coil end of ballast through a special wire i think called s2 on start switch .
This is to disconnect all but the coil during crank, s2 is live only during crank . The other s pulls in the starter motor .On
most of our cars
So if all that is OK with card in place — you will have 12 v before during and after crank .
If no 12v , check for 12 at coil + and coil - distributor etc .. ok to do with cap off . Check for broken terminal wires at ballast .
It is not good to have coil hv wire open in breeze as without a load (the plug) it goes 2 x normal, can damage coil
Those low $ spark testers are very good neon bulb to ground . For that reason — holds down volts Trying to arc to ground is way too unstable can hurt coil . A old plug can be made into a tester too The hurt it causes is a carbon track inside coil windings that can come and go causing skipping and higher rpm breakdown.
a shorted capacitor can also cause no spark and no 12 v too at points terminal .
Hope this helps ,
John
Sent from my iPhone
On May 31, 2023, at 5:46 PM, Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Hello fellow 300ers -
Does anyone happen to have a detailed manual for the 1962 Autolite Dual Point Distributor - either a web reference or PDF file?
I’m trying to start my 300H after an 18 month slumber and don’t appear to be getting spark - Fig. 80 of the Service Manual isn’t detailed enough/too small to read.
I checked coil low/high voltage circuits using a multimeter and resistance (ohms) is within spec so I think the coil is good. I pulled a spark plug and got no arcing when attempting to turn over. I took off the distributor cap for a look and everything appears in order with the exception of a stud that has a wire from one set of points attached, continuing through a casing hole where it has a wire secured with a 3/16 nut and wire that connects to the negative terminal of the coil. This stud and nut were somewhat loose. There is a wire leading from the positive terminal on the coil to the condenser which I believe is for radio static supression.
Appreciate any/all help!
Kurt
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