Re: {Chrysler 300} 1962 Autolite Distributor Tech Manual

[John Grady <jkg@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi , any ground in the points circuit from coil (- ) terminal on, such as that stud not being centered will of course prevent circuit opening and thus no spark . Or bare wires touching distributor body inside. Never tape them , that jams vacuum advance . Get a sleeve  or new wire  If you put a card in the points to hold open , you should see 12 V on that stud .That  tells you primary circuit is ok . check right at moving point arm too  as that often black “flex wire”  can break inside 

The Chrysler start circuit can  be very confusing as the 12 v “ignition”  terminal at ballast ( blue ) goes away during 

crank , (!) normal (!)  and power is then applied to the coil end of ballast through  a special wire i think called s2 on start switch .

This is to disconnect all but the coil during crank, s2 is live only during crank . The other s pulls in the starter motor  .On

most of our cars  

So if all that is OK with card in place — you will have 12 v before during and after crank .

If no 12v , check for 12 at coil + and coil - distributor etc .. ok to do with cap off . Check for broken terminal wires at ballast . 

It is not good to have coil hv wire open in breeze as without a load (the  plug) it goes 2 x normal, can  damage coil 

Those low $ spark testers are very  good neon bulb to ground . For that reason — holds down volts  Trying to arc to ground is way too unstable can hurt coil . A old plug can be made into a tester too  The hurt it causes is a carbon track inside coil windings that can come and go causing skipping and higher rpm breakdown.

a shorted capacitor  can also cause no spark and no 12 v too at points terminal . 

Hope this helps ,

John   

Sent from my iPhone

On May 31, 2023, at 5:46 PM, Kurt Brueske <kurt.brueske@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:

Hello fellow 300ers -

Does anyone happen to have a detailed manual for the 1962 Autolite Dual Point Distributor - either a web reference or PDF file?

I’m trying to start my 300H after an 18 month slumber and don’t appear to be getting spark - Fig. 80 of the Service Manual isn’t detailed enough/too small to read.

I checked coil low/high voltage circuits using a multimeter and resistance (ohms) is within spec so I think the coil is good.  I pulled a spark plug and got no arcing when attempting to turn over.  I took off the distributor cap for a look and everything appears in order with the exception of a stud that has a wire from one set of points attached, continuing through a casing hole where it has a wire secured with a 3/16 nut and wire that connects to the negative terminal of the coil.  This stud and nut were somewhat loose.  There is a wire leading from the positive terminal on the coil to the condenser which I believe is for radio static supression.

Appreciate any/all help!

Kurt

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