is doing too . … and it works perfectly on 300 with plastic insulation . you have to stagger well made tight wrap sleeved solder joints to avoid a bump , —- leave the big under dash wrapped loom as it is . Sometimes you need to add a new wire outside though if otherwise ok harness has one burned .And not shorted to another .
I have done two F/G main harnesses that had come off cars — one with an engine fire , other had shorted at the kick panel sharp edges . sold as parts harness , nothing left on engine side of firewall , took a day each and a big table , after buying the wire , almost have to buy rolls to get right stuff, Napa wire not right , chinese junk . Waytek is a good source for auto wire but $ — sometimes using the old ends salvaged, other times improvising with newer fittings .
I liked doing it , frankly .Did both at once Both are in cars .
I noticed on the G harness they added an inline factory fuse not on print about 2 A in power feed to EL power pack . Must have had shorts there in F model year due to failed pack —- that will burn out headlight switch dimmer . I have never seen that short myself but plenty of burned headlight dimmers
I have to disagree with Ron , no way are you changing a single strand from say ignition switch to starter relay without destroying all the wrapping and getting yourself into a huge mess .
Bare wire / no insulation under a 57 plymouth dash with plastic wire is for sure caused by a bungled repair attempt that shorted the wires . I have seen that exact thing on 57-58 Dodges .
There are three different circuits using the same gauge yellow wire — you hook it up wrong , the wire explodes after you connect battery often damaging the whole harness .But only the first time ( nice touch) that you open a door and poof
The door switch yellow wires ground only when you have a door open , or turn on
interior lights at dash switch . some of the other yellow have 12 V on them unfused . ( i think start circuit to push buttons and solenoid . Crossed up by someone) . Some yellow are hidden in big harness adding to the thrill . Which are which ? Tag all wires or a picture, easy to get wrong . classic result of this is no lights when you open door, you find burned to bare yellow wires hanging down .
So , no wire change fixes human error . takes a while to figure this all out, if you come at it sometime later , wires in wrong places splices , balls of tape etc ,—- I ended up cutting off all the yellow ends coming out of the harness ( about 5) and running new yellow wires outside harness following FSM .
Dodge , Plymouth Chrysler harnesses and colors almost the same .
Rubber though —- once hard , it cracks and can’t get replacement wires / colors . Often hard to solder too as rubber does something to copper surface , have to scrape clean . Time for new harness if cracking rubber .. sooner or later it falls apart ..
Brings up keep it original , as rubber ( I did on Y n Z Packards ) but while doing it , I had a lot of second thoughts . Depends if concours ? Will fail again ? Stiff , thick wires . Does not like bending to shape — If a driver car I would at least think about reproducing it in a modern wire
A good wire for this is called AWM , UL code means “appliance wiring material . “
jg
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 29, 2023, at 10:06 PM, Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
Danny –
I think the problem with that is that you have to comb through every inch of the harness, identify the problem sections, then cut out those sections and solder in fresh wire. A real PITA. IMHO, it’s easier to just replace one strand at a time in its entirety.
Also, a comment was made concerning leaving the dash wiring alone. Well, a few years ago, I worked on a 56 Plymouth for a friend. I happened to look underneath the dash and there was six inches of bare wire just waiting to contact the body and cause a fire. Very scary.
Ron
From: dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Sent: Tuesday, August 29, 2023 9:09 PM
To: Ron Waters <ronbo97@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Cc: 'Justin I' <captjj28@xxxxxxxxxxx>; chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: {Chrysler 300} 300B wire harness recommendations
I have no idea if this will work in this instance and it is entirely subject to John's comments, but Tom White once showed me his trick of saving old harnesses and what he did was peel it back until the wires were good, cut the good wire out, splice in an appropriate new wire, and then use the good old wire to make new ends, then re-wrap. In the case he showed me only the exposed wires outside the wrapped bundle were shot.
Again, no idea if it applies here, but Mr. White made a harness look brand new that way.
Danny Plotkin
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