Following is the website for the guy down the road who fixed my radiator. The two videos show how he rebuilds honeycomb radiators. I found it very interesting and would be happy to pay for his skill. Obviously my radiator wasn’t as involved as this but still beyond me and the tools in my garage. I don’t complain about paying for a job that I am not prepared to do myself. https://www.ftrs.com.au/vhrc/make/ Henry From: John W Sager [mailto:cleanthegarageout2@xxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Wednesday, 15 November 2023 12:32 AM
To: 'Ray Melton'; 'John Grady'; Henry Schleimer
Cc: '300 Club'
Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} Radiator or core for my 300C My radiator guy used the same type of core for mine. As he explained, the the tubes are longer and closer together. I don't know how many manufacturers of radiator cores there are, but I'll bet most of the shops use the same one so that option is probably common. I've had radiators apart myself and it's not that difficult to put them back together. You just have to be proficient at soldering. I'm sure there's some tricks and probably some "tribal knowledge" involved, but it's not rocket surgery. That's why I'll never understand the premium price that some shops charge. From what I've seen, the reason for charging high prices is because they can. That is just my two cents and your mileage may vary. Similarly, I had my 300C re-cored here in Australia years ago by a local guy who specialises in vintage car radiators. He found a correct sized 3 core but with a closer tube spacing (more of them). This is as good as a 4 core as the effectiveness of the cooling drops the deeper the core gets. The “problem” I had was the automatic fluid cooler tube had to be replaced and there was none the exact size, He used one for a Ford Bronco which was close but needed some reworking of the bottom tank holes to fit. Was expensive but well worth finding an expert used to doing one off jobs. Henry My local radiator shop did a 4-row conversion on my original 300C radiator, silver soldered a leak in the transmission fluid cooler, retained upper and lower tanks, pressure tested both the coolant and transmission fluid circuits (in a big tank to see bubbles) while I watched, and repainted everything nice semigloss black for $400. However, that was 9 years ago, and I haven't inquired about current prices since then (no need). Ray Melton Las Cruces, NM **************************************************** On 11/13/2023 5:27 PM, John Grady wrote: hate to say it but aluminum universal works fine , ? paint black, i did not ( please no rocks thrown ) ? 300 $ . Keep hood closed I did it , have to get reducer hose sleeve . But i think going ahead , the look bothers me ,too much that was in 383 58 dodge maybe out of this we find a real source for a new 4 row . Publish the prices . Glen ray was like 1000$ , but yes good stuff . , big vendor to mopar muscle guys
Anyone under that $ new 4 row ? for real ? I found good prices at rock auto on 67 dart wide one copper for V8 maybe 300 , hit a close out . Apparently some problems with rebuilding ours now , tube dimensions of available cores changed ( China?) so old top and bottom mopar end plates under tanks can’t be used over ? Unless a lot of rework This issue made rebuilding Packard 37 radiator with a “modern core” under old tanks hit 2000 . They can make original look core by hand , over 3000$ l Why new makes some sense looking ahead ? --
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